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Review of the reviews: What the critics say about Scott’s and others
Review of the reviews - what the critics say about St Alban and others
Review of the reviews: what the critics say about London's Hawksmoor restaurant and others
Review of the reviews - what the critics say about Bruno's Brasserie in Cambridge and others
Review of the reviews... what the critics say about London’s Tamarai and others
Review of the reviews... what the critics say about L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon and others
Review of the reviews... what the critics say about Bacchus in east London and others
Review of the reviews... what the critics say about Royal Hospital Road and others
Review of the reviews... what the critics say about the Ship in Distress at Mudeford, Dorset, and others
Review of the reviews… what the critics say about Bluu in Glasgow and others
Review of the reviews... what the critics say about Steven Saunders and others
Review of the reviews29 January Richard Johnson heads out to the country to sample the food at the Black Boys Inn in Hurley, Berkshire Despite the soft furnishings and the paint effects, there's still a good deal of pub about the Black Boys. There was Brakspear's beer on tap, and the food was reasonably priced. The salad of warm pheasant (£5.50) was bland. It hadn't been hung long enough. I personally like game to have a deep gamey taste, otherwise you may as well eat chicken. Which is what this pheasant tasted of - a farmed fowl fed man-made pellets. The highlight was steak and kidney pudding (£8.95). The pastry was made with real suet, and its claggy texture was lifted by the inclusion of fresh thyme. The dish's real triumph was the meat. The beef (shin, I would guess) melted away to a buttery nothing. 29 January Gillian Glover enjoys a day out at the seaside - in the city - at the Mussel Inn, Edinburgh Its mission is simple: to bring city diners the freshest we Review of the reviewsGiles Coren uses his new food provenance system to rate the Bluebird Dining Rooms in Chelsea... Review of the REVIEWS5 March Victor Lewis-Smith is in heaven at Masala Craft, at the Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai My favourite haunt among the several I visited was the Masala Craft (in the Taj Mahal hotel), which was once the home of the legendary gourmands' club, Greens, (back when this city was still called Bombay) but has now got rid of its downmarket Indian-dancing-for-tourists trappings, kitted its staff out in cult-orange robes, and offers multi-regional cuisine. It has also spent oodles on an interior design that makes you feel like a little person in Land of the Giants, as you sit in a gigantic mahogany pipe box for a very long time (because, in India, the waiters habitually take the starter orders, then disappear for aeons before returning to take the main course). But who cared? Certainly not me or my companion, because the laid-back Mumbaian concept of time was already undermining our European obsession with the clock, while the pungent scent of asafoetida hung enticingly in t Review of the reviewsJay Rayner lets his instincts rule at the Hartley Bar and Dining Rooms... Review of the reviewsJay Rayner finds himself reaching for his napkin in Vernon's, Manchester... Review of the reviews Sunday Telegraph
19 December Matthew Norman feels his age at trendy Refuel in London's Soho The name is horribly naff, suggesting a provincial burger bar styled after a petrol station, but Refuel at the new Soho hotel is so macro-glaciated that those of us over 32 should on no account enter it without our metaphorical thermals. The rest of us can take comfort from the fact that the food offered on a faintly overpriced menu is pretty good. My starter, seven steamed dumplings, suggested that the challenging world of dim sum is best left to the specialists. Happily, my main course more than atoned. What was listed as braised neck of lamb with tomato, flageolet and basil was a rich and herby pseudo-cassoulet. (Dinner for one, £41.45 with half-a-bottle of house wine)
The Observer
19 December Jay Rayner was determi Review of the reviewsJay Rayner warms to the grown-up Thyme, which has moved from the suburbs to London WC2... Review of the reviewsGillian Glover tastes perfection at the Seafood Restaurant... Pages 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | Previous | Next |
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