The ambition of Jez Hollingsworth, head chef of The House, is to achieve a Michelin star for the establishment, which opened last October. This isn't surprising as he was the first chef to win a Michelin star for Quo Vadis.
The House is a detached red brick 1930s building situated on a prominent site where Canonbury Road meets Halton Road - a five minute walk from Upper Street in Islington. The interior is open plan with the pub area separated from the dining room by an oval bar. Customers have the choice between eating in the 45 cover intimate dining room, with its green formal seating or the relaxed pub area, with 30 covers, which has wooden tables and open fires.
In addition, there's an outside beer garden and wooden decked terrace and in the summer, the terrace will act as an extension to the dining room with white linen tablecloths, offering a further 80 covers.
Another feature of The House is the "theatre kitchen" which means that Jez is in full view of the customers while he works.
He says he doesn't mind being watched while he and the kitchen team work. "I quite like it," he says. "It's better than being in a closed kitchen and you can see people's expressions and reactions to the food. Normally you don't see what's going on, but with this layout you really feel the vibes of the place."
Jez has an impressive track record, having worked for Marco Pierre White for many years, working at several well-known restaurants including The Canteen, the Criterion Brasserie, Quo Vadis, Titanic and The Oak Room. In September 1999, he launches White's new restaurant The Belvedere in Holland Park and then became Head Chef of Seven Restaurant in Home in Leicester Square. He left a few months later to move to Singapore to set up and launch a 70-seater restaurant The Fig Leaf Restaurant at Fort Canning Country Club. In July 2002, he returned to the UK and took up Barnaby Meredith's offer of Head Chef at The House.
The House is the sixth establishment where he has been involved with the opening. "I was a little bit nervous," he confesses, "although in Singapore, we had much less time to prepare for the opening. I enjoyed my two years in Singapore but wanted to return to the UK."
He buys foie gras, meat and chicken livers from Nigel Fredericks, 216, which he describes as "quality, top notch - I've got a good relationship with them and have used them for a few years - they supply good produce".
La Fromagerie, 217, a local supplier in Islington, provides all the cheeses served in the restaurant such as Reblouchon and Roquefort. "I'll pop into the shop and see what they have," he says.
Cove Seafood, 218, in Dorset provides fish and seafood such as Dorset crab, cod, Dover sole, mussels, clams. "It's top quality produce," he says. "I used them for seven years when I was working for Marco Pierre White."
Fruit and vegetables come from Chef's Connection, 219, which "offers great service and good quality foods", says Jez.
When he devised the first menu for The House, he says he didn't want to intimidate anyone. "We didn't want anything too flashy," he says. "The House Shepherd's Pie flies out of the door," he says.
One of the house specialities is the Jambon Persilée - this is cured ham cooked in white wine for five to six hours and then made into a terrine.
Pork comes from Pugh's Pigs, 220, which supplies a whole suckling pig, "which means good portion control," adds Jez. "We also buy sausages and lamb from them." Tuna comes from Penbra Fish, 221.
Jez says: "I tend to mix and match suppliers - if I can't get something from one, I'll try someone else."
As for desserts, the Hot Chocolate Pudding with Coffee Ice Cream is a best seller and the complete dessert is made from scratch including the ice cream.
Sample menu
Starters
Leek & Potato Soup with Chives & Sour Cream, £5
Parfait of Foie gras & Chicken Livers with Armagnac, Toasted Brioche, £6.50
Stilton, Red Onion & Rocket Salad with Peppered Beef fillet, Blue Cheese dressing, £5.95
Jambon Persilleé, Warm Potato Salad, Gherkins & Dijon Mustard, £5.50
Mains
Lamb shanks with vegetables and mashed potato, £10
Marinated Fillet of Pork with Sage & Garlic Pomme Sauteé, Spinach & Sauce Chacutière, £13.50
Roast Magret Duck Breast with Creamed Cabbage, Turnip Gratin, Thai Spiced Jus, £14
Sausage of Crab & Scallop, Wilted Lettuce, Tomato, Shellfish Bisque. £13.95
Desserts (£4.50 to £6)
Hot chocolate pudding with Coffee Ice cream
Pineapple and Passion Fruit Tart, Grand Marnier Sabayon
Caramelised Banana Tatin and Vanilla ice cream