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Caterer & Hotelkeeper Magazine

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Caterer loves... English wine

Thursday 01 June 2006 00:00

It may surprise our neighbours across the Channel, but we've been producing wine in England for ever - well, since Doomsday anyway. The survey from 1085 recorded 46 vineyards in southern England alone. Despite this, locally grown wine seems to have a bit of work left to do on its national and international reputation. This week is English Wine Week (27 May to 4 June) so if you haven't found out what there is on offer, now's the time to get involved.

Growing grapes for quality wine in this country has always been tricky - partly because of the lack of good locations. Monks used to be the main cultivators and the monastery garden was their only option. These days, however, English wine growers take a rather more scientific view.

Nyetimber vineyard in West Sussex has south-facing slopes in an area similar to Champagne, hence their production of such great sparkling wines - even beating the French stuff in blind tastings. Sadly though, the reality of the climate and latitude here mean we are highly unlikely ever to meet the production levels of France or Italy.

Sparkling wine is something we English really excel at, although the normal whites, and even a few reds, are pretty good, too. Reds are notoriously difficult to produce in England as black grapes need more sun to ripen them and produce the sugar which ferments to alcohol - and we don't get much of that on our little island. Three Choirs, in Gloucestershire, has had a go and produced its Cellar Door Four Oaks 2003. They also have a two-AA-rosette restaurant and accommodation at the vineyard. Denbies vineyard in Dorking, Surrey, also has its own restaurants as well as a visitors' centre giving plenty of information about English wine production.

Although a relative newcomer to the winemaking scene, Wales is also getting a look in, with Welsh Wine Week running at the same time. There are now more than 20 vineyards in the country, each producing about 100,000 bottles.

Restaurants across the UK are getting involved and seeing the English varieties fly off their wine lists. All Hotel du Vin and Malmaison hotels feature national wines with pride. The Dog Inn at Wingham in Kent has managed to get six bins from England on its list.

By Alix Young

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