AA guide didn't do me much of a service
Over the years I've felt that of all the bodies in our inspection system in England, the AA provided the most useful feedback for hotel operators and, when the rosette scheme began, for restaurateurs as well.
However, during the Simon Wright-Pétrus debacle last year I began to wonder and, having seen the 2004 AA Restaurant Guide, my worst fears are confirmed.
My restaurant has a stated policy of "service included". No tips are asked for, and no tips are expected, as I believe it's my job to pay the team. However, the AA in its wisdom has decided that, where no compulsory service charge is added, the words "service not included" will appear.
Not only is this misleading but it makes my restaurant look as if the prices quoted need to be inflated by the service charge range of 10-15%.
JOHN PATTIN
PROPRIETOR, COTTAGE IN THE WOODS, MALVERN WELLS, WORCESTERSHIRE
The only way forward for new wave of coffee bars
Amanda Afiya suggests that food is the key to coffee-bar profits (Caterer, 4 September, page 5) but every self-respecting, experienced caterer has known from day one that the new wave of coffee bars - Coffee Republic, Aroma and the like - wouldn't survive in high-rent, high-street sites by selling only coffee and a limited range of biscuits. It was inevitable they would go the way they've gone, and it's interesting that such chains were conceived by non-catering specialists.
There's a need to increase the spend via food, but this has been common knowledge for some years, and it seems a bit late for Caterer to be writing an editorial on the subject.
RON ZANRE
PARTNER, THE PR PARTNERSHIP, CHISLEHURST, KENT
- Thanks, Ron! I'm pleased you agree with Amanda's comments. A point that's obvious to a specialist in a certain sector may sometimes need to be explained to the broader community of our readers. Ed
London's lagging behind
The 250 delegates at the International Hotel Conference in Monaco heard that the hotel industry's recovery will be total in three years' time (Caterer, 25 September, page 10).
Why so long? Is it because so-called experts look only at London and other European capitals?
I suggest they visit the Midlands and the North of England and see that things aren't so bad there. Experts say major events and disasters are the reason for poor sales, but the main reason for business failure is bad management.
JOHN DAY
WORKSOP, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE
Scotland can be proud of its culinary heritage
I was dismayed at the publicity given to Andrew Fairlie's article in the Scotsman about Scottish food and restaurants (Caterer, 18 September, page 6) and I cannot understand why we run ourselves down so badly in Scotland. The standard of restaurants throughout the country, particularly outside Edinburgh and Glasgow, has improved greatly over the past 10 to 15 years. And I have no doubt that Taste of Scotland (also Caterer, 18 September, page 6) had a part to play in boosting those higher standards.
Taste of Scotland won the contract to handle the brand new Food Grading Scheme on behalf of VisitScotland. One of the reasons why it won the contract was because it already had an inspection system in place.
Wendy Barrie, the ex-chief inspector, made great headway in improving the Taste of Scotland inspection system, thus placing the company in a position of strength to win the contract. Why she was asked to leave before the new scheme was launched, we'll probably never know.
Food operators were suspicious and wary of the new Food Grading Scheme and many stood on the sidelines to watch how it developed before volunteering to be inspected. There were bound to be teething problems in setting up a nationwide scheme of this nature, and it's extremely disappointing that it didn't receive greater support at every level, particularly from on high. I'd like to see England, or London, trying to do similar.
Rome wasn't built in a day, and the Food Grading Scheme was long-awaited, much-needed and in the very early stages of its development. Shame on everyone who didn't support it. We've now lost Taste of Scotland as a consequence - the only worldwide marketing tool the industry has had to promote Scottish tourism through its wonderful food, natural larder and culinary heritage.
SHIRLEY SPEAR
HEAD CHEF AND CO-PROPRIETOR, THE THREE CHIMNEYS, ISLE OF SKYE
To describe Scottish food as "bastardised" and "devalued" is a contradiction in terms.
Is Andrew Fairlie not someone who, along with other top chefs working in Scotland today, chooses to put foie gras and truffles on their menus among other non-Scottish delicacies just to achieve recognition and Michelin stars, and also give their egos a boost?
I for one don't see these people putting the humble wee haggis on their menus with bashed neeps and champit tatties. Mince and tatties, pie and chips, and fried eggs are all staples of the Scottish diet.
If Mr Fairlie is so concerned about this diet, then he and the other darling of the Scottish "crap food" scene, Nick Nairn, should seek to do something about it. Preaching about it will get the industry in Scotland no further forward and will only have people saying: "See, I told you it was all deep-fried Mars bars and Irn-Bru sorbet up there."
Mr Fairlie's comments do nothing to encourage the next generation of chefs. "I don't want to be a chef any more, Mum - Andrew Fairlie says the food's crap."
A DISAPPOINTED, BUT PROUD SCOTTISH CHEF
NAME AND ADDRESS WITHHELD BY REQUEST
While I agree with some of the adverse comments about Scottish food from two of the most respected chefs in Scotland (Caterer, 18 September, page 6), it's the customer who dictates the food expected from a business.
Scottish produce is highly valued, resulting in higher prices, so many establishments cannot use local produce, since the "mark-up" required to achieve profit margins becomes too expensive for some customers.
Education for our future customers must surely come from the home and, of course, the food that's available at our schools.
JAMES MURPHY
EXECUTIVE CHEF, HILTON GLASGOW, BY E-MAIL