At the beginning of this book, English restaurateur Tony Allen and Italian Michelin-starred chef Giorgio Locatelli bravely set the theme - namely, England versus Italy. The book, of course, has been published to coincide with their recent BBC television series.
Like the TV series, the book soon establishes that these two characters have several things in common: a love of fast vehicles, respect for each other's culture and, most importantly, a love of food.
The book is divided by subject matter, which ranges from fish, hunting and gathering, via everyday food through to kids, feeding friends and (my personal favourite) leftovers.
Each chapter is preceded by a narrative from both chefs, which provides them with the opportunity to wax lyrical (or not!) about their respective culinary histories, to reminisce about family outings and childhood memories, and generally give us their views.
Despite being a New Zealander, I soon felt for the English, who, we're told, are unable to muster even a rudimentary understanding of the most basic of cooking concepts, let alone the joys of outdoor eating.
However, in defence of the English, you have to acknowledge the rather unjust birthright of the Italians - primarily, a climate that encourages the mastery of both cooking and eating alfresco, alongside a store cupboard of produce designed to go with that style of cuisine.
Initially, the structure of the book (which allows both chefs room for rival recipes in each chapter) is successful, with pairings of tiramisù and sherry trifle; and chicken stew, artichokes and lemon with salt beef, carrots and mustard dumplings. However, it begins to lose its logical progression when Allen, who starts out strongly with authentic English dishes, digresses and begins to incorporate foreign ingredients into his repertoire.
Although his magpie tactics are not necessarily a bad thing, they do contribute to a general confusion over what the book is really all about. Locatelli, on the other hand, seems to have no end of Italian masterpieces to share and, of the two chefs, provides the more challenging recipes.
As
Tony & Giorgio is really not a book for chefs, I'm probably being over-critical. If you treat it as the sort of all-round cookbook you'd buy for a friend who likes to dabble in the kitchen, you won't go wrong. It is entertaining and educational and has some fabulous photographs and recipes that vary in complexity but are easy to follow.
Anna Hansen, joint chef-proprietor, the Providores, London
Tony & Giorgio
Tony Allen and Giorgio Locatelli
£20, Fourth Estate
ISBN 0-00-714144-0