The food at Thomas Keller's French Laundry pop-up is sublime, says Fay Maschler

Housed inside department store Harrods, Thomas Keller's French Laundry pop-up restaurant may be a far cry from the rustic original in sleepy Yountville, California, but the food is sublime, says the London Evening Standard's Fay Maschler.

The three-Michelin-starred US chef is running the pop-up restaurant for 10 days, serving a nine-course tasting menu including some of his most iconic dishes such as salmon cornet and oysters and pearls.

"No ingredient is repeated within the lengthy parade of tastes," says Maschler. "Some are sublime, such as the Salad of Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm, which includes imported radishes surely showing the biggest carbon footprint for an eentsy vegetable ever recorded."

Meanwhile, fellow US chef Wolfgang Puck's first European venture, Cut at 45 Park Lane, is a meat aficionado's heaven but the Sunday Telegraph's Zoe Williams find its slick interiors, macho clientele and full-fat menu a bit rich.

The Sunday Times' AA Gill enjoys the food at Nopi, Yotam Ottolenghi's first restaurant proper in Soho, but says the quality of the food can't justify the inflated prices.

Equally the enormous mark-up on the wine leaves a sour taste in the mouth of the Independent's Amol Rajan at Galoupet, while the Observer's Jay Rayner's meal at Bistro du Vin is notable for all the things that are wrong, not right

Writing in the Daily Telegraph, Matthew Norman is impressed by the high-end service and chef James Sommerin's complex but unfussy cooking at the Crown at Whitebrook, Monmouthshire.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

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