Using produce out of season sourced from halfway across the world is damaging to the soul of British cooking, delegates to the Skills for Chefs conference were told.
Speaking to the 350-strong audience of chefs attending the two-day event, food writer and broadcaster Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall urged them to make greater use of locally produced seasonal foods. "While it's tempting to use produce from all over the world, it works against the understanding of our seasonality and implies that produce of countries with sunnier climates is more worthy than our own," he said.
"Most produce doesn't travel well, and processes used to aid transportation are damaging, whereas home-grown seasonal produce can be harvested and eaten at its very best."
He encouraged chefs to forge partnerships with growers, cheesemakers, fishermen and farmers, and build menus daily around the produce they have available. "Chefs have a unique opportunity to ensure the survival of local producers by showcasing the produce in their restaurants."
While he conceded that customers expect excitement and entertainment from dining out, he stressed that this was just as achievable using locally sourced ingredients as with the exotic. "It doesn't have to be Thai curry or sweet and sour," he said. "Barbecued squirrel on the menu will soon make people sit up and take notice."
Source: Caterer & Hotelkeeper magazine, 3 - 9 July 2003