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Chez Bruce is a gastronomic jewel, says John Walsh

Kerstin  Kühn
Monday 05 September 2011 15:14
Chez Bruce

One of London's longest-standing neighbourhood restaurants, Chez Bruce, is a jewel in the gastronomic wasteland of Wandsworth Common, says John Walsh.

The Independent's food critic says that after 16 years, Bruce Poole and Nigel Platts-Martin's Michelin-starred restaurant is in "very rude, adolescent health".

"Everything is meticulously well thought out, cooked a point, and dished up with care. It's hard to find fault with any of it," he enthuses.

John Lanchester says dining at Roganic, the two-year London pop-up restaurant from Simon Rogan, made him want to visit the original L'Enclume in Cumbria.

"The frantically inventive and busy cooking worked well, on the whole," The Guardian critic says of his meal.

Meanwhile, AA Gill of the Sunday Times discovers that Made in Camden, the restaurant attached to the Roundhouse arts and entertainment venue, is an exceedingly good caff offering small and large plates as well as excellent choices for vegetarians.

Writing for The Observer, the interior at Sir Alan Sugar's Sheesh in Chigwell, Essex, reminds Jay Rayner of the inside of the entrepreneur's wallet, the menu offers solid Turkish food.

The restaurant at Massimo is surely the best-dressed room around, and the food isn't exactly shabby either, according to the Sunday Telegraph's Zoe Williams, while the Metro's Marina O'Loughlin says Machiavelli's basement restaurant Dining Room, with its cold atmosphere and irritating staff, is understandably almost deserted.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

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