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Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck's Apsley menus 'bewilder' critic

Thursday 05 November 2009 14:46
Apsleys

Apsleys, the Lanesborough’s new restaurant featuring three-Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck, has been slammed by restaurant critic Marina O’Loughlin in the Metro today.

Despite Beck holding three Michelin-stars for his restaurant La Pergola in Italy, O’Loughlin says the food at Apsleys – A Heinz Beck Restaurant is “bewildering” and the interior design by Adam Tihany is “stultifying and overblown”. 

She points out that Beck is not in the kitchen, adding:  “It is left to his formerly single- Michelin-ed lieutenant Massimiliano Blasone to interpret his signature dishes.”

Meanwhile, the latest eaterie from the Soho House stable – Pizza East – is criticized by Richard Vines of Bloomberg.com for serving lackluster pizzas.  In particular, he takes issue with the base which he describes as “a chewy concoction with a big uneven crust.”  He does, however, like the starters and desserts, the smiley staff and the location in a sympathetically-refurbished warehouse.

It’s a different story, though, for Princess of Shoreditch, a recently redesigned gatropub, which receives a top rating from Time Out critic Guy Dimond.  As well as good pub food on the ground floor, he enjoys top notch cooking in the first floor dining room.

For this review in full and more, see What’s on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.


Apsleys panned as 'spectacularly ghastly' >>

Apsleys - a Heinz Beck restaurant, London >>

Nick Bell quits Apsleys after just six months >>

Pizza East, London >>


By Janet Harmer


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