Relaunched Rib Room 'serves lacklustre food at extortionate prices', says Jay Rayner

Jay Rayner says the relaunched Rib Room at the Jumeirah Carlton Tower Hotel in London serves lacklustre food at extortionate prices.

The Observer's food critic complains that a restaurant that in the 1960s declared its ambition was to serve the best beef in London has not aged well.

"They charge like this for such lacklustre food because they know their clientele don't really care about either cost or quality. And it really shows," Rayner says.

Writing in the Independent on Sunday, Lisa Markwell finds that at his new chain Union Jacks, Jamie Oliver is reimagining the pizza. But she can't help but notice that there really is no need to.

The Sunday Telegraph's Zoe Williams visits the Riding House Café, which she says is a restaurant that strives to be all things to all people, a Jack of all trades and master of some.

In London, the Metro's Marina O'Loughlin says Ducksoup is the very incarnation of nowness but not for those looking for a relaxing lunch; while the Evening Standard's David Sexton finds a menu that's on trend and an inspired wine list at Soif in Battersea, the third venture from the creators of Terroirs and Brawn.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

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