Chez Panisse Fruit is the seventh book by Alice Waters, the inspirational chef-proprietor of the Chez Panisse restaurant and café in Berkeley, California.
Every one of her books so far has been a culinary masterpiece, written with style, taste, a love of food and the desire to share her passion, beliefs and values. This is no exception.
The Chez Panisse theory of food is to keep it seasonal, fresh and ever-changing. Waters is inspired by the produce that arrives daily from her local growers, farmers and friends - people she has developed relationships and understandings with over a length of time. They know her needs, but she understands theirs - which, in today's world of the corporate fast buck, is almost unheard-of.
Chez Panisse Fruit is written in alphabetical order rather than by chapter, and each entry kicks off with Waters's listing of the fruit's quality points, its varieties and her preferences for its use.
The book is, of course, principally about fruit, but it also contains some fruit and meat combinations, despite the fact that Waters is clearly not a great fan of these. You can trust her judgement, though. Quail with fig vinaigrette was excellent; grilled cured duck breast with pickled peaches, another success.
The book includes, too, some recipes for aperitifs - for instance, vin de pamplemousse, silver limeade - plus a vast selection of desserts, some interesting salads and sherbets (called sorbets on this side of the pond).
As with all the Chez Panisse books, Waters does not pretend to be the sole author and gives credit where it's due - to the cooks who work for her and, in an extensive bibliography, to others.
As chefs, of course, we all work with food, but sometimes we lose track of what it's all about. Somewhere - in the long days among the GPs, wage budgets, staffing problems and late deliveries - the love of food can occasionally get lost.
Chez Panisse Fruit (and Waters's other books) will remind you why you're in the crazy business of cooking. Be inspired and enjoy.
Peter Robinson, chef-proprietor, King's Arms, Stow-on-the-Wold, Gloucestershire
Chez Panisse Fruit
by Alice Waters
HarperCollins, about £27.50
ISBN 0-06-019957-1