Beer sales may be falling, but the microbrewing industry is on a roll. Ten years ago there were 96 micros listed in the UK Good Beer Guide, the current edition lists 388. And if you listen to brewing consultant Rob Jones, of the Dark Star Brewery, Brighton, there could be another 200 here in the next two years. And now Ireland is getting in on the act.
The first to open its doors was the Biddy Early Brewery, in County Clare, in 1995, and today there are 10 Irish microbreweries - a mixture of brew pubs and stand-alone breweries. Five of them have beers available over here - about time, then, thought Bord Bia (the Irish food board), to start shouting about it. Cue the Irish Microbrew Showcase, held in one of the labyrinthine (and smoky) rooms of Irish brew pub, Porterhouse, in London's Covent Garden.
First up was Biddy Early (00 353 65 683 6742), or rather brewer Niall Garvey - Biddy was actually a 19th-century witch. "But she was a good witch," giggles Garvey. "A sip from her magic bottle cured anything, from arthritis to infertility." Biddy Early already exports its beers in bottle and cask to Japan and Sweden. It makes four main beers, Black Biddy, Blonde Biddy, Red Biddy and Real Biddy. Best is the fruity, Hallertau hop-packed Blonde Biddy (4% abv) and the rich, roasted malt Black Biddy (4.2% abv). Red Biddy was just plain weird; its bog myrtle flavouring giving the beer a distinctive horse-dung aroma.
The Irish Brewing Company (00 353 1 626 9787) was established six years ago and makes just one beer, called, er, No 1 Brew. The Pilsner lager won the Best Lager Award at Ireland's Independent Beer Festival in Dublin three years ago, but it didn't do much for me.
Far more exciting was Messrs Maguire's Extra (5% abv). The distinct fruity hop flavour is obtained by the extra-late addition of Cascade hops, both in the copper and later during fermentation, and the rich, malty hit from the combination of roasted barley and black roasted malt. Messrs Maguire (00 353 1 670 5777) also make a viable contender to Hoegaarden's throne with an aromatic, clove-laced wheat beer (5.2% abv). Says brewer Chris Reid (a Brummie-born ex-Firkin man): "We started this off first as a seasonal beer during the summer, but it became so popular that we now roll it out all year round."
Carlow Brewing (00 353 5 033 4356) was founded by the O'Hara brothers in Carlow in 1998 - and it won my top mark for best stout. O'Hara's Celtic Stout is super-smooth with an extra dollop of roasted barley but with just enough sweetness to balance out the bitter roasty kick. The Millennium Brewing Industry Awards agreed: last year it was voted the World's Number One Stout.
Shorts
Britain's best pub
The Campaign for Real Ale (Camra) named the Swan, at Little Totham, Essex, their National Pub of the Year to kick of the first ever National Pubs Week. The Grade II-listed cottage pub, run by licensee John Pascoe, includes a house ale from Mighty Oak in addition to its impressive line-up of beers. Camra's National Pubs Week aims to encourage more people to visit pubs more regularly, after new research showed that 20 pubs are closing every month and 27% of adults never visit pubs.
Is it a sweet? No it's vodka
The Candy Shot Company (020 7737 8056) has launched MT Vodka in the on-trade. And yes, as the company name suggests, it's a range of vodka made from candy. Flavours include butterscotch, toffee, banana and blackcurrant.
Wine Relief Scotland
A final reminder for the Wine Relief 2003 tasting that will take place in Edinburgh tomorrow (7 March). In association with The Scotsman, the tasting, part of the Comic Relief activities, will take place at the Assembly Rooms in George Street, 7-9pm, and promises more than 100 wines, which will be sold in aid of Wine Relief 2003. There will be 20 retailers taking part, including Justerini & Brooks, Bottoms Up and Sainsbury's, plus many raffle prizes and competitions, including "Guess the weight of the Parmigiano". Host and organiser Rose Murray Brown MW will also hold a wine masterclass, and UK Bartender of the Year, Chris Langan, who consults for Edinburgh's Opal Lounge, will show off his skills in a cocktail masterclass. For more information contact Murray Brown on 01334 870731, or e-mail her on masterclass@rosemurraybrown.com.
Wine weekends
Cornwall's Hustyns hotel (01208 893700) is organising a series of gourmet wine weekends hosted by Camel Valley Vineyard owner Bob Lindo. The next one takes place this weekend (7-9 March), but there are more scheduled for 11-13 April and 9-11 May. Guests get a tour around the vineyard, followed by a tasting and lunch, plus a posh dinner back at the hotel with wines paired up with each course, cooked by chef Steve Pitt. The weekend costs £499 for two.