The Times, 1 April
Ginny Dougary finds food to enjoy in the Cotswolds at the much-praised Allium in Fairford
An amuse-gueule of mini-cornets stuffed with a local goats' cheese spiked with sweet peppers [was] tasty but more irritating really than amusing, as it was impossible to avoid sprinkling yourself with cornet unless you stuffed it all in your mouth at once.
Another pre-starter was served in the dining room - a small bowl of rabbit broth with boudin of loin: gamey, sweet and savoury. This hit the spot - like a classy version of buttered toast and Marmite. The star performer of the mains was a plate of Eastleach Downs organic pork. This was an exciting dish that showed off the chef's inventive skills. (Three-course set-price dinner £32.50)
The Independent , 1 April
Thomas Sutcliffe goes experimental and eats sans lumière at London's new Dans le Noir, EC1
Having handed over potential sources of illumination such as cigarette lighters and mobile phones, we have opted for the "Surprise" menu. The first surprise is that our starters are glowing faintly - a dim glimmer of phosphorescence in the blackness. It turns out to be some kind of salmon sashimi and it may well be the most unpleasant thing I've ever paid for and put in my mouth. Mercifully, the main courses are better; we get slabs of roast beef with melted leeks, sweet potato crisps and fondant potatoes - which, sight-unseen, taste like failed roasties. The beef does have a good flavour but since you haven't a clue what's on your fork when you lift it up there's no pleasurable anticipation to round out the taste, only a kind of vague wariness. (Food two stars out of five. About £100 for two with wines and service)
The Guardian, 1 April
Matthew Norman would like to offer his benedictions to the waiters, but not the food, at Waters Reach in Manchester
Bless the waiters, bless and venerate them for putting such brio into so desultory a working experience - specifically, for serving every dish as if it were in a Michelin-starred joint. Was the food worth this effort? On the whole, it was not. The main course, belly of pork with mustard mash, was notable for some of the finest crackling I've ever eaten, so I won't dwell on the ashen, bland meat beneath it. As for pudding, a slice of pecan pie confirmed the inconsistent form, the base being overcooked to the texture of plywood and the accompanying damson chutney appearing better suited to clinical trials in removing tattoos from human skin without recourse to lasers. (Five out of 10. About £40 a head)
The Observer, 2 April
Jay Rayner discovers a bit of Mexico in London's Bethnal Green at the Green & Red Bar and Cantina in E1
We tried three of the main courses, which came with sides of shredded cabbage, some more refried beans and a pile of small, dense tortillas. According to my chief expert on food matters - Mr Google - carnitas is meant to be a dish of pork which is first braised, then shredded and roasted or fried until crisp. The carnitas here didn't appear to have been through that process - it was just a good piece of roast pork - but we liked the separate piece of crackling and the small rack of ribs that came with it. We also tried a whole sea bream roasted in banana leaves, which Simon dismissed as "girls' food" and, gender wars aside, it did struggle to fight its corner against the butchness of other dishes. (Meal for two including drinks and service £60-£90)
The Independent on Sunday, 2 April
Terry Durack finds a trip to the outer reaches of north London to sample the food at the Lock Dining Bar in Tottenham worth the effort
As far as locations go, it gives new resonance to the term "in the middle of nowhere". A little appetiser of creamy onion soup with herb oil served in a demitasse is a hospitable start straight out of Gordonworld. Freshly baked breads arrive with flavoured olive oils. A slab of chicken terrine with a layer of foie gras is lush, full-flavoured and served at room temperature, which makes much more of the flavours than the usual fridge-cold offerings. A beautifully cooked lamb on a bed of shredded cabbage would more than justify the £13.95 price tag. An additional tartlet filled with kidney, Toulouse sausage and spinach is like a first course on the same plate. (14 out of 20. About £85 for two, including wine and service)