Letter of the week
Dangers of employing schoolkid workers
While I was talking to a staffing agency in Herefordshire, the comment was made that using children as kitchen staff throughout mid- and West Wales - in many hundreds of pubs - is very common.
I can confirm this from recent personal experience. Indeed, one particular licensee - a former manager in a nationally branded chain - has several children aged 15 or under working part-time in his pub kitchen. While he's not breaking the law, he believes that because these youngsters operate only microwaves and a commercial dishwasher, then he's not liable to meet the basic requirements of health and safety regulations or food handling recommendations.
I've also come across an operation in Lincolnshire which used 12- and 13-year-olds to operate a potato rumbler and electric chipper to produce chips for a pub restaurant. Never mind the safety implications, employing anyone under 13 is against the law.
When challenged, operators tell me there are no other people available in their locality prepared to work in such menial, part-time positions. Some have even said that their insurers are happy to include these youngsters in employer liability policies - doubtful, surely?
Then there's the argument that opportunities for work experience in rural areas are scarce, and that this experience is invaluable for the youngsters, some of whom may go on to careers in catering.
But parents need to understand the inherent dangers in commercial kitchens. They should be highly regulated environments - however, parents rarely inspect them or enquire as to what safeguards are in place to protect their children. Nor are the thousands of schoolchildren routinely employed across the country under close scrutiny from any authoritative body.
The numbers add up, of course. Two kids at £3.50 an hour each, with perhaps the business owner or minimum-wage worker in the kitchen, represents extremely low wage costs. It's telling that it is independent operators - and, in the main, pub licensees with leases, tenancies, and freeholds - that employ younger staff.
The temptation is enormous to fulfil staffing needs at the lowest possible net cost. But surely a reputable, quality-led business should attract the right people to staff it?
I refuse to work in any kitchen with youngsters under 16 - and even then, only with trainees, who must learn the disciplines of the working environment in situ as part of their training for NVQs.
I believe this is the dark underbelly of the industry. For all the legislation in place - to protect employers, employees, and customers alike - it's effective only if it's universally observed and policed.
Wendy Collins, Llandrindod Wells, Powys
Organic veg: it's a matter of taste
I write to comment on your article about a consumer survey on the taste of organic food (Caterer, 8 September, page 10).
Having been a commercial grower of organic fruit, vegetables, salads and herbs for several years I have to disagree with Shaun Hill's view that there is less flavour benefit to be gained from organic vegetables than there is when it comes to organic meats.
I have had this discussion many times with chefs who were unconvinced - and I can't understand it. Sixty thousand Chinamen, as the saying goes, can't be wrong. I started growing 20 years ago. The bulk of my sales were to the public, and virtually all of them came to buy because of the flavour.
They all raved about not having tasted such a carrot - or whatever - since their childhood. It's now years since I stopped growing, but I'm still accosted in my local supermarket by ex-customers who say they miss my produce.
It's not many years ago that many catering establishments in this country ruined every main meal served by the addition of poor, lacklustre and badly cooked vegetables. Thankfully there has now been a revolution, but there's still no room for complacency. Most dishes now have veg only in minute quantities, so there can be no logical reason not to use the freshest, most flavoursome produce available. Why then do most still use endless stocks of stale, shrivelling fruit and veg?
Whether you buy into the organic bit or not, buy the best available and in quantities that won't have it hanging around for days. And please can we have slightly more generous portions?
Mary Tozer, Lymington, Hampshire
Are we still having to fight ageism?
In last week's edition there was a head chef position advertised for the Savile Club (Caterer, 29 September, page 89).
One of the requirements was that applicants needed to be aged 30 to 35. To stipulate criteria such as this may not be illegal at present, but it's immoral and very short-sighted.
Our industry struggles to fill vacancies with suitably qualified and experienced professionals, both front and back of house. With people living longer and the prospect of having to stay at work past the age of 65 to ensure an adequate pension, it would seem fair for employers to look at as many different candidates as possible to find the best person for the role.
Twenty years ago, if you found yourself out of work on the wrong side of 45 you faced an almost impossible task to find employment, competing against younger candidates and ageism from employers. Are we to believe that nothing has changed or, indeed, that they have just got worse?
Mark Leach, Head chef, aged 39½, by e-mail
- Julian Malone-Lee, secretary of the Savile Club, replies: "The age quoted was a guideline only, and anyone who falls outside it should still apply. We're happy to look at chefs with plenty of experience, or up-and-coming candidates looking for their first head chef position."
School meals proposals are welcome
The School Meals Review Panel's proposals to reduce fried food in schools to two servings in a five-day period and to reduce the high salt and fat content of school snacks should be welcomed.
I'm particularly pleased to see the "whole school approach" to food and cooking in the report. We're constantly being told that a food-related health crisis is just around the corner. So now really is the time to help young people to understand the part food plays in diabetes, heart disease and obesity.
Of course, the classroom is the first place to learn about healthy eating. I see children in their senior years making healthy eating choices every day without thinking about it.
Children really do form healthy eating habits at an early age, and all we can hope is that these will see them through to adulthood.
Mealtimes are a great opportunity to reinforce healthy-eating messages and support the learning in the classroom, and I'm delighted that the Government has recognised this and is making it part of the new approach to school meals.
I hope that it stands the test of time and is not diluted because of the cost.
Graham Sibthorp, managing partner, The Brookwood Partnership