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What’s on the Menu? - A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

Friday 07 November 2008 10:45
What’s on the Menu?:

Bloomberg, 31 October
Richard Vines visits Soseki, 30 St Mary’s Axe, London EC3, and Rosa’s, 12 Hanbury Street, London E1

Soseki, a Japanese restaurant in the shadow of London's ``Gherkin,'' is styled after an early 20th- century teahouse, with corners that are ideal for vicious plotting or discreet entertaining. In other words, the perfect City venue. Perfect for a time of plenty, that is, and possibly not quite right for a period when extended lunches are out and a nod in the direction of frugality goes a long way. I found myself looking longingly at the 100 pound ($165) tasting menu with matching wines and then opting for something cheaper. If you're really on a budget, Rosa's -- a new Thai eatery in Spitalfields -- may be more to your liking.
Soseki and Rosa’s - review in full >>

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Metro, 4 November
Marina O’Loughlin visits Bel Canto, Minster Court, Mark Lane, London EC3

I hear a load of po-faced nonsense from other reviewers about not wanting to write bad reviews, about only recommending places that are worthy of your custom. Well, nuts to that. Shouldn't we also tell you about places to avoid like a leech-infested swamp? Of course, I could always just say don't go, it's terrible – then witter on about Louis Walsh for the next 750 words: his crumply-faced crying, the fact he looks like something you'd pull out of a winkle with a pin. Or my open-mouthed admiration of Sacha Baron Cohen. But what would be the point of that? Which is why I'd like to take a little of your time to talk about Bel Canto.
Bel Canto - review in full >>


Evening Standard, 5 November
Fay Maschler visits Rotunda Bar & Restaurant, Kings Place, 90 York Way, London N1

Philanthropy. Who can afford that any more? “He who dies rich, dies disgraced,” said Andrew Carnegie, one of the great philanthropists. You can imagine bonus-bolstered bankers and hedge fund managers tussling with that thought, turning it this way and that, before chucking it in the bin. In the United States the arts have benefited enormously from private patronage. Carnegie Hall springs to mind. Here we mostly rely on the state. At King’s Cross, where promised regeneration seems to have been a long time in coming, something wonderful has happened. Property developer Peter Millican, whose company built Central Square in Newcastle, has created an office development that contains within its walls concert halls, art galleries, exhibition spaces and a home for the London Sinfonietta and the Orchestra of the Age of Enlightenment.
Rotunda Bar & Restaurant - review in full >>


By Janet Harmer


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