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Dinings ‘uncompromising’ in use of quality ingredients, says critic

Janet Harmer
Monday 08 March 2010 16:24
Babbo: 'competent food at ridiculous prices'

Despite a limited wine list and an extortionate bill - £115.10 for two at lunch – Jasper Gerard of the Daily Telegraph enjoyed the tapas-style offerings from ex-Nobu chef Tomonari Chiba at Japanese restaurant Dinings, London W1. 

“The chef is uncompromising in his use of quality ingredients (truffle, bass, lobster, oyster, crab, duck),” he said, as he tucks into a wide selection of dishes.

In Glasgow, the Independent's Tracey MacLeod visited Crabshakk and found that a pleasingly mixed clientele, crisp but friendly service, and decent prices make the seafood restaurant a winning operation.

“Crab cakes, generously stuffed with white crabmeat spiked with chilli and parsley” and “seared scallops, served sizzling on the skillet with a herb-scented butter” were just two of the dishes she enjoys.

Other reviewers are not so fortunate in their choice of restaurant.  Giles Coren, writing in The Times, described Babbo in London W1 as “one of the new breed of Italian restaurants in Mayfair (Cipriani set the trend, Dolada followed most recently) that serve competent food at ridiculous prices and make you feel ill to the bottom of your mortal soul.”

And, in Manchester, Observer food critic Jay Rayner found that Glamorous, a Chinese restaurant with a seating capacity of 600 set in a business centre adjacent to a multi-storey car park was anything but glamorous.
While he admitted the experience at times was entertaining, the food itself was either odd or weird.

For this review in full and more, see What’s on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.


Review of the reviews >>

Gordon Ramsay’s critique of the Pheasant questioned by critic >>

Ritz dining room still “one of the most beautiful” in London, says critic >>


By Janet Harmer


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