Simon Hopkinson's book Roast Chicken and Other Stories was recently chosen by Waitrose Food Illustrated magazine as the most useful cookery book of all time. Hopkinson ran London restaurant Bibendum's kitchen in South Kensington for eight years before retiring in 1995 to become a writer. Kerstin Khn talked to him
What was the inspiration for Roast Chicken and Other Stories?
There's an old bistro in Paris called Chez L'Ami Louis that's well-known for its roasting. It dates back to the 1930s and it still has
solid-fuel ovens. Its roast chicken is possibly the best I've ever eaten, and that's what inspired the title of the book. In terms of the recipes, I like to reverse the process of cooking. I think about dishes I like to eat rather than dishes I like to cook, and write recipes for them.
How long did it take to write the book?
When I started writing the book I was working at Bibendum, and it was difficult to find the time to write. I also handwrote everything in those days, which delayed the process even further. It wasn't until cookery writer Lindsey Bareham got involved that things really got going. I didn't know how to use a computer, so I would dictate and Lindsey would type. Altogether I would say the book took about two years to complete.
You list your 40 favourite ingredients in the book. What don't you like?
There aren't many flavours I dislike, but if you had to make me eat a cinnamon-and-honey-flavoured ice-cream, you'd hit the nail on the head.
What's your favourite recipe in the book?
I don't have a favourite recipe.
How did you feel after winning the award for the most useful cookery book of all time?
SH I was obviously very excited and surprised. Roast Chicken and Other Stories is 11 years old, so I didn't expect the book to be chosen for the award.
Do you miss being a chef?
If I missed it, I'd still be doing it. I prefer cooking to writing, but not in a professional kitchen.
Do you think the celebrity status certain chefs have gained is inspiring people to cook more at home?
Not at all. Celebrity in any form is worrying because it's not real. I would encourage people to read recipe books and learn through them rather than sitting in front of the TV watching someone swear like a trooper. Television promotes the wrong thing.
What are your top tips for good cooking?
Have a healthy greed, read good cookbooks, such as those by Jane Grigson and Elizabeth David, always follow the recipe properly and buy the best ingredients you can afford.