Restaurants in Leeds, Bristol, Kent and Cornwall win critics’ applause

Some excellent quality cooking can be found in the provinces, according to the restaurant reviews in this weekend’s national newspapers.

Restaurants in Leeds, Bristol, Kent and Cornwall, all received glowing reports for producing some delicious meals from well chosen, quality ingredients.

Jude Kereama, who is half Maori, a quarter Chinese and a quarter Malaysian, was applauded by Jasper Gerard of the Daily Telegraph for introducing exotic flavours to well-chosen Cornish ingredients at Kota in Porthleven.
 
Meanwhile, Tracey MacLeod of the Independent was impressed by the inventiveness of Toby Leigh, nephew of renowned chef Rowley Leigh, for using locally-foraged ingredients to add an intriguing twist to well-known dishes at Age & Sons in Ramsgate, Kent. For instance, gravadlax comes with buckthorn berries, and sea bass with samphire and sea beet.

At the City Café within the City Inn, Leeds, Jay Rayner of the Observer is amazed to find such accomplished, proper cooking – with the odd flourish -  within a corporate setting.  The wine list gets top marks, too, for serving nearly half of the wines by the glass.

And finally, Mitch Tonks is found by Lucas Hollweg of the Sunday Times to be serving beautifully fresh fish at the RockFish Grill and Seafood Market in Bristol.  The service was smiley, knowledgeable and interested too, he enthused.

For this review in full and more, see What’s on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.


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By Janet Harmer

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