It is very evident from the first few pages of this book that Chantal Coady is a true champion for the cause of chocolate. A co-founder of the Chocolate Society in 1991 and of the Campaign for Real Chocolate, she has a passion for the promotion of the "real thing", as opposed to what she describes as fast chocolate or vegelate.
With large glossy pictures and informative text, the book is without doubt meant for the coffee table, but Coady's obvious know-ledge of "real" chocolate and the personal anecdotes of her career in the chocolate business make for some interesting and amusing reading.
The book begins with a whistle-stop history of chocolate, from the nomadic Stone Age to the 20th century, then goes off to explain the production of chocolate from bean to bar - all of which I found interesting without being too dour.
After a brief section of points to look out for in high-quality chocolate, the book guides you through making ganache and the techniques of chocolate-tempering.
Good photography and step-by-step instructions help you through the minefield that is chocolate-tempering. Other chapters cover savoury chocolate, desserts, drinks, biscuits, cakes and breads.
I found the section on savoury chocolate slightly worrying. Professional chefs with a keen grasp of sweet, sharp, acidic and sour tastes would think twice before diving into many chocolate/ savoury combinations, so I wonder how home cooks would fare. I feel this could be a recipe for disaster.
The sweet sections are a lot more convincing, with some variations on classics and evergreen chocolate recipes. The recipes are straightforward and interwoven with Coady's personal recollections from her travels and her career - although I found this sometimes muddled the divide between recipe book and coffee-table bible.
In summary, this book will appeal greatly to the advanced home cook with a daring nature, or provide some stimulus for the chef who has come to a cul-de-sac of ideas for the following week's specials menu.
Coady is obviously an authority on chocolate but, by her own admission, not a chef, and this is reflected in the book's content. I am convinced this book will find its way on to many of the hip and trendy coffee tables around Britain but it's not one for too many professionals to have at the top of their birthday list.
Stuart McLeod, executive chef, Castle House, Hereford
Real chocolate
by Chantal Coady
Quadrille Publishing, £14.99
ISBN 1-8440-0017-3