Meat Liquor's burgers are brilliant but it's a shame about the queue, says Zoe Williams

The hot and spicy burgers at Meat Liquor in central London may be brilliant; but its 90-minute, freezing-cold queue is not, says Zoe Williams.

The restaurant proper from the owners of the hugely popular Meat Wagon food van may offer great value but making people queue just isn't a functional way to deal with its customers, according to the Sunday Telegraph's food critic.

"There probably isn't a better burger to be had in London for £6.50," Williams says. "However - and this is a huge however - there are burgers just as good to be had for a couple of quid more. So you've got to factor in how much you value your time."

Meanwhile the Observer's Jay Rayner is impressed with food van Pitt Cue's now permanent home in Soho, which offers delicious meat dishes that are executed with commitment, wit and serious attention to detail.

Writing in the Independent on Sunday, Amol Rajan says the name aside, few country inns live up to the delight that is the Nobody Inn in Doddiscombsleigh, Exeter, Devon, while the Sunday Times' AA Gill finds the Riding House Café in London not bad but it's not good; it's boring and whatever

Finally new tapas joint Copita in Soho, the second restaurant from the owner of nearby Barrica, offers all the thrills and sophistication of San Sebastian, according to the Metro's Marina O'Loughlin.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

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