The Independent
4 September
Richard Johnson checks out Chez Kristof in London W6
The skate wing Grenoblaise (£13) was so salty I suspect the capers hadn't been washed. The judicious tang of the little buds was lost altogether, and the delicious fish was virtually inedible. Which does rather beg the question - what's going on in the kitchen? The desserts (all at £4.50) were of limited ambition. Peach melba and the créme brûlée left me cold, so I went for sorbet - I liked the fact it was served with bugnes. The rich eggy pastries soaked up the fruit beautifully. To pay, I had to chase the waiter with my credit card. The sad thing was that I couldn't run very fast. My stomach was so full it groaned. Or maybe that was my arteries.
The Times
4 September
Giles Coren likes what he eats at Ottolenghi, London N1
The bread was a deliciously tacky slice of malty, meaty brown from a loaf which must have been beautifully decorated with dried fruit (I got a sliver of dried apricot and a smidge of orange) and a boisterous, yeasty white. Cannellini bean pur‚e with spring onion, lemon juice and olive oil was a high, citrussy ersatz hummus served in a generous fold on white porcelain. Salted fresh herring was robust and squeaky but seemed puzzingly under-seasoned and came with a soothing mush of grilled aubergine that had the lovely smokiness of baba ghanoush. The third starter was warm, sweet goats' cheese with organic beetroot - a little jiggling on my part paired the beetroot with the herring for satisfyingly mittel-European harmony. (Score: 7.67/10)
The Guardian
4 September
Matthew Fort finds a gem for his last-ever review at Tyddyn Llan, Llandrillo
My first course did not call for far-fetched comparison, odious metaphor or comic outrage, but rather for cultured appreciation and the expression of deep pleasure. The [salad of pig's] trotter was warm and stuffed with nuggets of its own meat and sweetbreads set in a mousse of the utmost delicacy and richness. A generous slice of seared foie gras piled sensuality on sensuality. The r‚moulade added its own creamy crunchiness. There were girolles, too, and mixed salad leaves (the healthy part). But it was the sense of sumptuous, velvety textures glossing my mouth, the gentle merging of flavours, that gave this dish its formidable delights. (Score: 17/20)
Timeout
7 September
Guy Dimond likes the black pudding and mushy peas at the Farm, London SW6...
The menu is Modern European - fishcakes, chicken Caesar salad, chocolate fondant - and although the dishes may sound or be familiar, the rendition of them is exemplary. Scallop on black pudding is served with a pea pur‚e and onion gravy; you will find no better version. Terrine, on many fashionable menus at the moment, was made from rabbit and foie gras with apple jelly and celeriac r‚moulade: sublime. Puddings are elaborately garnished with swirls or coulis and colour, but its not just all show: plum tart with a lemon grass and black pepper sorbet also had a kick. (Meal for two with wine and service: about £90).
The Guardian
5 September
... but AA Gill, also dropping in at the Farm, is not so convinced
Everything was under-seasoned by a consistent three degrees. The Blonde pointed out, fairly, that, if this was our local, we'd be pleased. Bizarrely, they run a no-cash policy, so you have to pay with Colin the credit card, and they knocked 40% off the bill, it being their first month, which is sensible and considerate. The food is still teething, but I expect it will get better. The fundamentals, the hospitality, is there. It just needs a pinch of salt. (Rating: three stars out of five).