This book was published in 1980 by the greatest chef of the era, Alain Chapel. It is no coincidence that Alain Ducasse, among others, worked in his kitchens as a young commis and, like myself, always credited their time there as the most formative of their career.
I was a commis at Restaurant Alain Chapel from 1981 to 1983 and saw, tasted and cooked most of the recipes in the book. For me its more than a recipe book – it’s part of my life, and I have fond memories.
The recipe that I have turned to most is “Chapon de Bresse truffe, flanque de grives, bécassines et alouettes’’. I remember the smell of the roasting Bresse capons and dunking a piece of bread into the roasting pan, hoping not to be caught by the great man. He saw me and, to my relief, instead of giving me a rollocking joined me in my sly feast. This dish was served as part of the Christmas menu and consisted of capon, larks, snipe and thrushes. It was carved at the table and served with truffles and croûtons covered in a coarse paste made with the innards of the birds.
I never tire of reading this book, especially this recipe, and it always brings a smile when I read that if there are no thrushes then starlings are equally tasty.
The first 70 pages are taken up with Chapel’s life and what made him tick. One chapter, entitled “Les Mains”, goes into great depth explaining the importance of taste, sensuality and the artistic touch – quite simply, beautiful to read and inspiring. Then follow menus and chapters on bouillons to soups, les entrées, les poissons et crustaces, and so on. The original book had photos; the one I bought later in London had none. The photography is very much 1980s.
I occasionally use some of the recipes straight from the book and will credit the great man on the menu. Otherwise, I will always use it for inspiration and guidance and recommend it to any chef who wishes to learn about purity, respect and love of ingredients.
Michel Roux Jnr, chef-proprietor, Le Gavroche, London
La Cuisine: c’est beaucoup plus que des recettes
Alain Chapel
Robert Laffont Paris
ISBN 2-221-08287-4