Fresh produce
Look out for all the interesting and unusual squashes this month: Gem, Acorn, Spaghetti, Harlequin, Crown Prince, Kabocha, Onion and Turk's Turban. Home-grown seasonal apple crops are also back to their best this month, with the delicious Coxes and Egremont Russets now widely available.
Turkish figs are now coming to an end, and prices are set to rise as new-crop South American fruits supersede the European.
The best Spanish black grapes of late have been the super-sweet Uva Autumn
Royal variety. Thompson Seedless green grapes from Greece have also been worth buying.
Watermelons are up in price as the only ones arriving now are the new-crop Brazilian fruits. Look out for soft berry price rises, too, as the crops begin to arrive from further afield. Already, fresh blackberries have been expensive as the Dutch crops cash in on market shortages.
Source: Chef's Connection, 020 7627 4809, www.chefs-connection.com
Fish
Weather conditions have improved, so most vessels will be out fishing. On the South Coast this should mean more landings of species like ling, pollack and hake. There should also be more native sea bass available.
Haddock is also getting cheaper, thanks to more Icelandic fish coming on to the market, while landings of Dover soles in France should ease the pressure on price. Lemon soles, however, are still expensive.
Good weather has also meant plenty of crabs being landed. At this time of year they are very good quality and full of meat.
Source: M&J Seafood, 01296 588221, www.mjseafoods.com
Meat
There is lots of mallard and teal on the market - good news when you remember how bad it was last year. There are pheasants available, too, but these won't be at their best until November.
There is good wild venison starting to come down from Scotland now. As the bigger animals tend to be culled first, expect the cuts and joints to be on the large side.
Pork, lamb and beef are all showing consistent quality at the moment. Prime beef, in particular, is getting very good as the Christmas season approaches. Animals have had a full summer of feeding on grass, and traditionally the next three months are the best for quality.
Source: Aubrey Allen, 024 7642 2222 www.aubreyallen.co.uk
Seasonal recipe
Eguru pethelu (curried crab)
Although Andhra Pradesh is mostly a vegetarian state, crabs are a feature in its food chain, though only in the coastal towns such as Kakinada, Machlipatnam and Vishakhapatnam. Red chillies and tamarind are the common spices used in this cuisine, as in this recipe, which I tried in a friend's house in Kakinada, where his Telangana fisherman-cook prepared it for us.
Ingredients
(Serves four)
2 medium-sized crabs (about
500g each)
60ml vegetable oil
8-10 curry leaves
2 red chillies, whole and dried
300g onion, thinly sliced
2tsp ginger-garlic paste
100g coconut paste or creamed coconut
2tsp coriander powder
¾tsp turmeric powder
1tsp salt
3tsp tamarind pulp
150ml water
2tbs coriander leaves, chopped
Method
Wash and cut the crab shell into sizeable pieces and crack the claws. Keep it aside. Heat the oil and sauté the red chillies. Remove and add curry leaves. Add the sliced onions into the oil and fry until they are light brown in colour.
Add the ginger-garlic paste and cook until the raw flavour disappears. Sauté to a golden brown colour. Add the coconut paste and fry until the oil separates from the masala. Add coriander and turmeric powders, sauté on low heat and add crabs and salt.
Add tamarind pulp and water. Simmer on slow heat for 5-8 minutes and then remove the crab pieces and reduce the sauce. Add the crab back to the sauce and garnish with chopped coriander leaves.
Atul Kochhar, chef-proprietor, Benares