Evening Standard, 13 February
Fay Maschler at Tom’s Place
Since the time I overheard two fat-cat businessmen in a restaurant bar discussing the killing they were going to make in carbon futures, whenever I hear the phrase eco-friendly I reach for my wallet. From congestion charge to - as of last week - an ethical chippie in the heart of Chelsea, I have yet to be shown up as unnecessarily cynical.
Tom’s Place - Evening Standard magazine review in full >>
Time Out, 12 February
Guy Dimond at Tom’s Place
Chef Tom Aikens appears to have undergone a Damascene conversion. His book, Tom Aikens Cooking published in 2006, revealed a chef whose interest in fish stock sustainability extended little further than his deep-fat fryer. "Cod used to be widely available, but now, because of overfishing, it is one of the most expensive fish to buy. I just hope that we never run out of it for fish and chips," wrote Aikens. His book went on to recommend over-farmed wild fish, and listed recipes for at-risk species such as tuna, cod, salmon and sea bass while seemingly not giving two hoots about the environmental implications.
Tom’s Place - Time Out review in full >>
Metro, 13 February
Marina O’Loughlin visits William Curley
And now we've got our very own dessert bar, in cute, villagey Shepherd Market, Mayfair, thanks to talented and multi-award-winning chocolatier William Curley. Following the success of their Richmond shop, William and his wife, Suzue, have launched themselves uptown in this jewel of a store, all twinkling glass displays groaning with signature chocs, often (maybe due to fellow patissier Suzue's influence) demonstrating a delicate, Japanese flavour: jasmine tea, perhaps, or yuzu.
Metro review in full >>
Bloomberg, 8 February
Richard Vines visits L'Oranger
A wine tasting was under way downstairs at L'Oranger as I arrived for lunch. The manager asked if I'd like to join in while I waited for my guest. Is champagne French?
Around me, people were spitting. I rather liked what was on offer. I swallowed. You don't need free wine to enjoy L'Oranger, though it helps as the place is far from cheap. In fact, it is one of London's most expensive restaurants.
L’Oranger - Bloomberg review in full >>
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