Timely reminder from the Graves

By Joe Hyam

IN 1987 some of the Graves district's most important châteaux, including Haut-Brion, were included in the new appellation of Pessac-Léognan. Since then, the red wines of Graves have become somewhat unfashionable. For those in search of classic French wines at reasonable prices this is good news, because the original appellation has much to offer.

Graves is on the east bank of the Garonne and south of Bordeaux. Pessac-Léognan is closest to Bordeaux and it is the vineyards of this district that you see on either side of the road as you leave the city in the direction of Toulouse. Thereafter, with the exception of the appellations of Cérons, Sauternes and Barsac, it's Graves until you leave the region.

For examples of well-made and reasonably priced classic red wines from Graves, try the two châteaux of the Coste family in the area of Langon, Domaine de Gaillat and Château Chicane.

I came across these at a tasting of Maison Sichel in London last month. If I say they are notable for their approachable, perfumed, fruity style, bear in mind that these terms are made in the context of Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec grapes nurtured in Bordeaux. It is easy to say such things about the Cabernets of California, Australia or even the Languedoc. But what makes these wines so worthwhile is that they also have the tannic backbone and structure that remains the distinctive quality of Bordeaux.

Their immediate, fresh impact is a bonus, but no one could say they possess the blowsy, come-hither qualities that separate many New World Cabernets from the discretion and reserve of Bordeaux.

Sichel, which owns Château Palmer and Château Angludet in Margaux, is a great name in Bordeaux both as a producer and a négociant. At the tasting, the Graves showed up particularly well in the distinguished company of more expensive wines and wines produced in the firm and subtle style of the Médoc.

I have no hesitation in recommending the 1990 Château de Gaillat as an affordable, friendly restaurant wine, ready for drinking now. Its garnet colour and cherry bouquet is a far cry from the opacity and austerity of Pauillac, and at five years of age requires no expertise to spot its qualities. It should meet all the expectations of customers in search of a Bordeaux of a good year. At a trade price of £92.40 a case from Berkmann Wine Cellars (0171-609 4711), it is a natural for the mid-price section of a wine list.