Simon Rogan’s pop-up restaurant impresses the critics

Simon Rogan's two-year pop-up restaurant in London's Marylebone impressed the critics this weekend, with both the Sunday Telegraph and The Times food critics giving Roganic top marks.

The tasting menu at Roganic, which last week won Square Meal's best new restaurant award, is fascinating, awe-inspiring, confusing, dazzling and delicious, according to the Sunday Telegraph's Zoe Williams.

Meanwhile the Times's Giles Coren says that although Roganic's level of atmospheric austerity rather demands more surprising dishes, fireworks on the plate, some of the cooking is perfect.

Writing in The Independent, John Walsh finds uninspired cooking and absurd prices at the Hansom Cab in Earl's Court, while AA Gill says the Brunswick House Café in Vauxhall is like the canteen for Harry Potter and the Ghostly Open Sandwich.

The Guardian's John Lanchester says London Vietnamese restaurant group Mien Tay's Northamptonshire outpost is even better than his local one in the capital, while the Daily Telegraph's Matthew Norman is impressed with the authentic tapas menu served at Tapas Revolution set within the Westfield Shopping Centre in White City.

Finally Fay Maschler enjoys the modern British menu served up at the three-month pop-up restaurant by the Young Turks at the Ten Bells, giving it three stars in her review for the London Evening Standard.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

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