13 January
GUY DIMOND checks out Malmaison's BRASSERIE DE MALMAISON, London
Restaurateurs, supermarket buyers and food writers can seem obsessed with food trends. But what the typical restaurant customer wants, on the whole, is not something challenging, or innovative, or risky. Most discerning diners would rather have comfort food done properly than risk a Pacific Rim whim. Malmaison realises all this. The latest Malmaison - a "design hotel" chain originating in Edinburgh - has just opened between Clerkenwell and the Barbican, in a former Victorian nurses' home, and has adopted the winning, recently back-in-vogue formula of European brasserie for its new restaurant. Best of all, there were no brusque waiters - our camp Fijian-Canadian was charm incarnate. As a restaurant, Brasserie de Malmaison has a lot going for it - fast and near perfect service, and appealing dishes. Instead of trying to follow the latest culinary fashion, it has looked to the past and the European brassiere tradition for inspiration. (Meal for two with drinks and service: about £90)
10 January
BELINDA RICHARDSON hops along to the Blue KANGAROO in Fulham, London
"Family restaurant with play centre," says the sign outside the Blue Kangaroo, Fulham's newest and busiest restaurant. Now, to me, that immediately conjures foul images of cold chips, half-eaten polystyrene cups and sticky bricks of Lego. This particular Friday, you can barely get in through the door for capable-looking women parking prams and juggling papooses and pashminas. Luckily, we have booked a table upstairs, because downstairs (no booking) is full. Downstairs is where the main play zone is (basically, a human-sized rat's maze, with ropes, nets, balls, trampolines and armies of pink-cheeked toddlers flying through the air). Upstairs is all together more formal/normal. Bar the Brio in the corner, the pots of crayons, paper tablecloths and wall-to-wall television screens showing you exactly what's going on in the zoo downstairs, you could almost be in a real restaurant.
(Lunch for four adults and three children, £55 excluding drinks and service)
10 January
MATTHEW FORT braves the journey to Birmingham to sample JESSICA'S fare
Had it not been for the soothing presence of the deputy chief executive (who had demanded promotion from being mere "daughter"), and the infinite patience of the charming French staff at Jessica's, who talked us in on the mobile phone, I would have self-combusted long before we actually arrived at Montague Road, a quiet street in Edgbaston. Calm and cheer finally reasserted itself as we settled down in the handsome conservatory dining room and my hands fell upon a glass of wine and a menu. Several things strike me about those dishes. There is a sense of individuality, but not to the extent of having me suck my teeth and think, "I'm not sure about that." Perhaps this is not entirely unexpected, as the chef, Glynn Purnell, spent time in the kitchens of Claude Bosi, one of the stars of Ludlow, and of Simpson's in Kenilworth. Jessica's is a restaurant with ambitions, and heaven knows Birmingham needs one. It may have to boost its disappointing wine list to keep up with the standard of cooking, but three courses of effective, pleasant service makes it pretty good value. (Three courses and service, £29.50)
10 January
RICHARD JOHNSON at LE PETIT MAX, Riverside Plaza, London
My wife was unimpressed with her choice of main course, and she beckoned over the manager. "Which part of the chicken is this?" she asked. "It's cock, actually," he said. Her face fell. "You mean...? The manager of Le Petit Max smiled. "Yes, madam. You are eating cock." It was pure panto.
(Meal for two, about £40 without wine).