London’s reopened Canton Arms pub delights critic

The re-opening of the Canton Arms in London SW8 by the people involved with the Waterloo’s Anchor and Hope and Great Queen Street in Covent Garden has delighted food critic Jay Rayner. 

Writing in the Observer, he described the food served in all three pubs as hugely attractive – “rustic, solid, big flavours, no ingredient frottage”.

The choice of just two desserts was typical of the rest of the brief menu which Rayner believes shows welcome self-confidence. “The entire operation is without pretension; they are absolutely not trying to be all things to all people,” he enthused.

Sunday Telegraph food critic Zoe Williams described the West House in Biddenden, Kent as “as stylish place” that has earned a Michelin star under Graham Garrett, a protégé of Richard Corrigan.

Despite sampling some unusual concoctions – including a toffee-apple panna cotta with candy floss on top and a popcorn shot on the side – she found Garrett’s cooking to be carefully thought-out and mainly wonderful.

In Glasgow, Kate Spicer of the Sunday Times ate out at what has become one of the most sought-after venues in the city, the Crabshakk. Specialising in seafood, the cuisine, she said, lacked finesse, but the ambience was fun.  “If I walk out laughing more than I did when I went in, then I’ve had a good dinner.”

Time Out’s Guy Dimond of Time Out was thrilled that Bruno Loubet - one of London's most celebrated chefs during the 1990s – has returned to these shores from Australia.  Now ensconced at a new eaterie that bears his name at the Zetter hotel in London EC1, Loubet was cooking French cuisine de terroir as brilliantly as he was doing on his previous stint in the city.

Dimond advised: “visit before Loubet goes walkabout again.”

For this review in full and more, see What’s on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

Bruno Loubet - back from Down Under >>

Dinings ‘uncompromising’ in use of quality ingredients, says critic >>

Review of the reviews >>

By Janet Harmer

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