I have a confession to make. Shaun Hill is somewhat of a hero of mine - not in the Winston Churchill/David Beckham sense, you understand, but it's just that I happen to think he is truly one of the nation's very best chefs. He is also endowed with talent and judgement in spades but is affable and modest with it; a rare combination indeed.
So what do I think of his latest book? Well, as you might imagine, I like it a lot. As with his cooking, his prose is clear, bright and precise, and the book's title is an apposite indicator of what lies within its pages. It is not necessarily designed for the expert or advanced cook, but by skilfully introducing us to a range of valuable techniques via delicious dishes, we learn a great deal that is new.
There is so much common sense here, too; witness the section on game birds and ducks. You can dispense with the majority of written drivel when it comes to roasting ducks by simply reading what Hill has to say on the matter. Clearly, what is important is what type of duck it is you intend to cook: different birds require different cooking methods and times.
The book is also imbued with a delightful and gentle sense of humour. I loved reading the part where Hill tells us that he used to go to great lengths to make a spiced and aromatic fish consomm‚ for one of his dishes, but now buys a dried bonito stock from an Asian supermarket for its superior flavour. Check out also his amusing comments on why his excellent "bourride" recipe has another title in his book - I know exactly how he feels!
I was slightly surprised to see photographic illustrations of how to bone and fillet things - indistinct from hundreds of identical shots we, or any remotely interested cook, will have seen before. I am also not a huge fan of the book's photography in general, it being born of the "urban and gritty" school of food photography so tiresomely in vogue at the moment.
These, however, are minor cavils. This book is a real treasure by a real treasure, a master who has absolutely grasped the notion of when to add and when to leave alone - isn't that, after all, what cooking is all about? Beginners will learn a great deal from How to Cook Better, but more experienced professionals would also be well advised to study it carefully. You will rarely come across a chef who understands the combining of ingredients quite as expertly as Shaun Hill. n
Bruce Poole, chef-proprietor, Chez Bruce, London
How to Cook Better
Shaun Hill
Mitchell Beazley
£25
ISBN 1-84000-774-5