Evening Standard, 16 January
Fay Maschler at the Greyhound in Battersea
Last Friday night the menu at The Greyhound, which classifies itself as a gastropub but functions primarily as a restaurant, came as blessed respite. Newly arrived chef Diego Sales is Italian-born and it is that country which informs his cooking. Apparently he came to The Greyhound from the Michelin-starred Lombardy restaurant Osteria Il Volto.
The Greyhound - Evening Standard magazine review in full >>
Metro, 16 January
Marina O’Loughlin at Orrey
For every jaded London chef who scuttles off to the country and his own converted inn-type domain, there's another who can't wait to shake the dust of the provinces off their shoes for the bright lights and the big hitters of the city. Especially if country boy has managed to score a Michelin in the sticks. I have no idea how the mind of Michelin works; its latest performance in Tokyo seems typically random, awarding stars to what are essentially upmarket franchises (L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon) while overlooking culinary experiences such as the insanely creative Tapas Molecular Bar. But I have a suspicion that stars are awarded outside London to places that might not get quite the same attention if they were in W1.
Orrey - Metro review in full >>
Time Out, 15 January
Susan Low at the Establishment
Despite its churchy name, Parsons Green is one of the best places for discerning Londoners to imbibe. Beer-lovers make tracks for the White Horse; champagne fans get their fizz fix at Amuse Bouche. And now this new bar and restaurant, The Establishment, has a wine and drinks list that’s sophisticated enough to attract topers with taste.
The Establishment - Time Out review in full >>