I opened the pages of Caterer and Hotelkeeper with interest to read the article on vins de pays ("Country living", Caterer, 12 January, page 32).
I think the point of vin de pays has been missed. The French drink these wines daily, not just as an accompaniment to meals. The partnership when it's served with a meal is more passive. The function of the wine is to enhance the greatness of the dish by not adding further flavour.
Vin de pays wines are not about "standing up to food". No French people want the eye-popping flavours of oak, pineapple or gooseberry with their cassoulet. They want to taste cassoulet, and if it's good, why should we bugger it up by adding more flavours?
The wines of these regions are secondary. The food brings you to the table, not the wine.
I like my food and I like the fact that I can drink these wines without having to think about them. They are just there!
John Gilchrist
The Crooked Billet, Newton Longville, Buckinghamshire
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