Relaunched Criterion yet to find its feet, say critics

Iconic London restaurant the Criterion on Piccadilly, which has been relaunched under the ownership of Georgian entrepreneur Vasily Sopromadze, has some way to go to live up to its original reputation, food critics say.

Fay Maschler of the London Evening Standard says it may take a while for the new owners to find their feet.

“The menu will not help,” she says. “Introduced by the now commonplace and tiresome guff about sourcing only the most special ingredients […] it seems to have been composed by a committee anxious to be all things to all men.”

Meanwhile Metro food critic Marina O’Loughlin is more impressed with the Criterion, suggesting that despite hiccups she would happily recommend it to anyone looking for a showstopping room and a reasonable dinner.

For these reviews in full and more, see What’s on the menu? To book a table and view the latest restaurant deals visit Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

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By Kerstin Kühn

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