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Caterer & Hotelkeeper Magazine

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James Martin's Great British Dinners

Andrew Pern
Thursday 16 October 2003 10:48
There is very much a family feel to this book, with early photos of young James in pre-bandana days (thankfully). Dishes such as Gran's Bacon Buttie, Dad's Cheese on Toast and Auntie's Sponge appear throughout. Although some may feel it's possibly a bit twee, having known Mr Martin from our catering college days, and living, myself, in the same area he grew up in, there are a lot of points I can relate to within the book.

And I'm sure there will be many, many people out there who have similar childhood memories that are prompted by the scents and smells of certain dishes.

Straightforward
This is a great book for inquisitive youngsters or amateur cooks wanting to learn some basics without the boring bits. Most dishes are quite straightforward and uncomplicated, increasing the likelihood of a favourable end result.

The literary style is of the Gary Rhodes ilk - with its proud "Britishness" - mixed with the 1970s-themed cookbook The Prawn Cocktail Years by Simon Hopkinson. This was the decade when Mother's "moussaka" appeared, and the likes of chicken Kiev, goujons of lemon sole and Black Forest gâteau - all classics in their own right and all appearing in the book among the hundred listed recipes.

The book is also sensibly sectioned and titled with chapters on All-Day Breakfasts; Soups, Tarts and Terrines; Stews; Potatoes and Spicy Foods; and Vegetables and Extras. This makes dishes easy to find depending on what mood you are in.

Plain English
Instructions are easy to follow, with suggested alternatives depending on taste and availability. The culinary terms are in plain English, needing no glossary, making it appealing, rather than off-putting, to cooks of all capabilities.

Photography is by the well-known food photographer, Jean Cazals, and it's clear, simple and straightforward - and in colour. Not all recipes are illustrated, though there are enough to give the general standard and level of work required in a relaxed way.

All in all, this is a very easy-going book: nothing too taxing, and ideal for keen youngsters wanting to experiment, or perhaps to give as a Christmas present to confident housewives or husbands wanting to cook some great British dinners.

Andrew Pern, chef-proprietor, Star Inn, Harome, North Yorkshire

James Martin's Great British Dinners
James Martin
Mitchell Beazley, £16.99
ISBN 1-84000-728-1


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