Yes, I know, this is a wine book, and
Caterer usually reviews food books. Well, from now on you will see a wine book grace these pages every now and again - books that we feel you really can't do without - and this is one of them.
The Brits are now the number-one importers of wines in the world, and the largest consumers of wine for a non-wine producing country. But what do we really know about wine? Er, not that much. And if you haven't got time to take yourselves off to wine classes - and, let's face it, most of us haven't - then grabbing a few pages before you turn out the light is the way to go.
But a wine book? Well, things have changed on the wine writing scene. Even erudite writers such as Andrew Jefford can sustain most people's attention these days (honest), and his latest book is no exception. Published last autumn,
The New France does much more than it says on the tin - it gives you a hugely insightful lowdown on the current French wine scene.
Jefford is a passionate writer and he has a real empathy with his subject. After getting you up to date with the minefield that is French wine law, he explains the concept of terroir in dense but lively detail (though he can't resist the odd quote from Colette), before embarking on a journey through the regions. He profiles the key movers and shakers of "New France" while exposing each region's weaknesses in a pithy section he calls "Flak", leaving no stone unturned, as they say.
If you've been turning your back on France of late, this will rekindle those fires. And just in case you need any more convincing,
The New France has won a mantelpiece-full of awards - the latest is Best Drink Book of the Year 2002 from the André Simon Memorial Fund. Get reading.
Fiona Sims, wine editor, Caterer & Hotelkeeper
The New France: A Complete Guide to Contemporary French Wine
Andrew Jefford
Mitchell Beazley, £30
ISBN 1-84000-410-X