Evening Standard, 15 April
Fay Maschler visits Time & Space, Royal Institution of Great Britain, 21 Albermarle Street, London W1
A little conical flask, known in scientific circles as an Erlenmeyer flask, is the symbol used on the menu at Time & Space to highlight a dish that is one of chef Julian Ward’s British classics “with a twist!” Only two of the 21 items are singled out that way and at first glance the twist seems to be that the dishes are vegetarian. I can quite see that Heston Blumenthal was probably too busy to help, what with the Romans and the Tudors and all, but it does seem beyond lame to install a restaurant as part of the lavish refurbishment of an institution renowned for scientific discovery and look to digby trout (lower case is their house style) Restaurants, a division of the European contract catering giant Elior, to service it. On the time-space continuum, the phrase black hole jumps irresistibly to mind, especially when you discover that the Elior Group’s strapline is “Where there’s a taste for life”.
Time & Space - review in full >>
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Metro, 14 April
Andy Lynes visits Osteria Dell’Angolo, 47 Marsham Street, London SW1
Owner Claudio Pulze has more than 30 years' experience of opening restaurants in London so it's no surprise that Osteria Dell'Angolo gets lots of important little things right. Front of house staff beam; olives and breadsticks wrapped in Parma ham served with our aperitifs are delicious; there's a sommelier who doesn't blink an eyelid when asked for some suggestions under £30 on the predominantly Italian list (and comes up trumps too – a memorably full-bodied Salice Salentino Riserva for £27); and then there's the pasta. If pasta is the jewel in the crown of an Italian restaurant then Osteria Dell'Angolo is sporting some serious rocks in its figurative headgear. Ravioli of burrata with duck ragu is a gem of a dish, as good as anything I've eaten at Locanda Locatelli, River Café or L'Anima.
Osteria Dell’Angolo – review in full >>
Time Out, 16 April
Fiona McAuslan visits Britannia, 360 Victoria Park Road, London E9
Victoria Park ‘village’ is as richly dappled with gastropubs as the nearby park is currently dappled with daffodils. The Britannia, on the northern edge of the park itself is the latest pub to burst into bloom. Formerly a dilapidated chain pub, a stylish makeover has restored the building’s Victorian glory days with vintage red, white and blue stage curtains, portraits of bygone monarchs, two clearly defined seating and lounging areas, and a dining area filled with pale wood Windsor chairs and junk shop water vases.
Britannia– review in full >>
By Janet Harmer
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