MPW’s new restaurant ‘simply awful’, says critic

The Observer’s food critic, Jay Rayner, described Marco Pierre White’s Steakhouse & Grill in the City of London as truly bad in his latest review.

The critic stated “almost everything we ate was awful in that ‘someone must be punished’ sort of way”.

Rayner ordered the special of the day on his visit, the Lancashire hotpot, and said it was only special in “the way Benny from Crossroads might once have been described as ‘special’”.

“Given Pierre White's Yorkshire roots, it could be enough to restart the Wars of the Roses”, he said of the dish, giving the restaurant a kicking.

The Guardian’s Matthew Norman loved the food at the Glasshouse Brasserie, Worcester, but found the atmosphere distinctly chilling.

The critic said there are countless ways to screw up a restaurant and the one deployed at the Glasshouse is the misuse of space.
“The shape is catastrophic, with the tables lined up in one half of a long, thin room that narrows at the back into the corridor in which we sat.”

For this review in full and more, see What’s on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

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By Chris Druce

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