The taste of ancient worlds

01 January 2000
The taste of ancient worlds

1. The origins of parma ham

The method of processing Parma ham goes back more than 2,000 years. The Romans ate it because it preserved well and was easily transportable - important factors to a nation intent on conquering the known world. Even Hannibal is said to have taken a shine to this delicacy when he attempted to overthrow Rome during the period 218-202bc.

2. Is it real Parma ham?

There are nine million pigs in Italy, four million of which are annually used to produce Parma ham (or Prosciutto di Parma, as it is known in Italy).

To ensure the ham is the genuine article and to monitor the production process, the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma - the Parma ham producers association - was established in 1963 and now has more than 200 producer members.

The producers of genuine Parma ham take its authenticity seriously. Some supermarkets in the UK stock Parma ham that is from Parma but has not followed the stringent guidelines set down by the consorzio. Although the hams may look the same, a blind tasting will, apparently, tell you otherwise. The pig feed, age of slaughtering and curing period make a big difference to the end product.

In 1970, Parma ham became a product with protected origins, and the Ducal Crown - the consorzio's trademark, which is stamped on the skin of the ham as a guarantee of quality and authenticity - was introduced. Its design is based on the family crest of the Duchy of Parma.

Five years ago the "crown of authenticity" trademark was introduced on the packing of presliced Parma ham, extending the association's responsibilities to prepackaged Parma ham.

3. Parma ham pigs

Currently, 205 pig producers supply meat that is cured to produce Parma ham. To qualify as authentic producers, both the breeding farms and slaughter houses must be situated in a particular region of Italy. Most pigs come from the Emilia Romagna, Veneto, Piedmont and Lombardy regions and are a crossbreed of landrace and large white. Both breeds contain the correct amount of muscle and fat needed to make a Parma ham.

Before they can be slaughtered, the pigs have to be fed on a diet of maize, barley and cereals until they are at least 10 months old and have reached a minimum weight of 150kg. This guarantees the legs will weigh 10-14kg before curing.

The pigs are also fed on whey from milk that is used to make Parmesan cheese by local producers, adding a considerable amount of protein to the pigs' diet, and imparting more taste to the final product.

4. How is Parma ham produced?

To ensure the meat is of premium quality, the pigs are rested and fasted for 15 hours prior to slaughter.

After butchering, the legs of ham are cooled, which hardens the meat in preparation for trimming. Some of the rind and fat are then trimmed from the leg to aid the salting process (with the rind cut away from the end of the ham, it is able to absorb the salt) and give the ham its characteristic shape.

5. How is Parma ham cured?

The rind of the ham is treated with wet salt and the lean parts are coated with dry salt. After being refrigerated for about seven days, the remaining salt is removed. The ham receives a second coating of salt and is refrigerated for a further 15-18 days. During this time some of the salt is absorbed. The hams are then washed and beaten with a wooden mallet to soften the edges and hung to dry.

Generally, the windows of the salting plants are opened in the direction of the prevailing wind, which allows the ham to air-dry.

In the seventh month of hanging, the knuckle and muscular parts of the ham are covered with lard to seal against excessive drying.

During the final curing period, the hams are inspected by a consorzio official. At this point the hams are branded, providing they meet the accepted weight of more than 7kg (they also have to be at least 10 months old). However, the average weight of a whole genuine Parma ham is 9kg and it will be 12 months old.

6. Storing Parma ham

For bone-in ham to retain flavour and texture, it must be stored between 17-20ºC and at a humidity of no more than 70%. In carefully controlled conditions, however, it can be stored for up to two years.

After slicing, the cut surface must be covered with plastic film to avoid oxidation and the meat must then be refrigerated.

Boneless Parma ham should be kept vacuum-packed and refrigerated at 4-8ºC or less, but never below 0ºC. Unopened, it has a shelf life of up to three months. Once opened it should be covered with plastic film and can be refrigerated for up to one month. Vacuum packs are available in 70g and 100g weights.

Hams are sliced at widths of no more than 1.5mm - this enhances the taste and makes it easier to chew.

In Italy, 85% of restaurants buy Parma ham with the bone in, while 95% of exported Parma ham is presliced or boneless.

7. Cleaning

If you buy Parma ham on the bone, it should be cleaned before slicing. The skin and oxidated parts of the ham need to be removed with a sharp knife and the fat covering the muscle surface should also be cut out.

8. Flavour combinations

Although we Brits generally serve Parma ham with melon, the Italians believe melon is too sweet to be served with it.

They prefer to serve it with figs, mango or simply with chunks of bread and butter.

One of the few chefs in the UK to buy whole Parma ham is Maddalena Bonino. She uses it at the newly opened London restaurant, Bertorelli's Café Italian in Charlotte Street. Bonino tends to serve Parma ham as an antipasti with pickled artichokes, onions and peppers. Although she admits it is an expensive ingredient, she says the flavour it imparts is unique. "If you have a really good ingredient, the cost becomes irrelevant."

Parma ham is also used in her carbonara, or as a fine julienne with simply cooked fish or chicken. Bonino uses the fat of the ham to cook with potatoes, giving them a salty flavour. She also uses the rind or the fat as a base to a chickpea or bean soup. "If you remove the fat from the rind and dice it, it renders down and gives depth to soup."

9. How to slice Parma ham

In Italy, most delicatessens use a machine to slice Parma ham to ensure it is sliced thinly enough. Some chefs and shop owners, however, still slice the ham by hand, securing it to a stand and using a sharp meat knife.

Bonino buys her Parma ham deboned from London-based supplier Fine Italian Foods. She uses an automatic slicer to cut her ham, admitting she finds it impossible to slice it thin enough herself. "If it is cut too thick the ham is hard to chew and that completely changes the eating experience. It would be similar to eating large chunks of smoked salmon."

10. Wine with Parma ham

Italians generally pair sparkling white wines with Parma ham and most are found drinking Malvasia or Sauvignon Blanc.

1. For a list of the importers of genuine Parma ham, contact Kay Dickinson at the Dialogue Agency, tel: 0181-977 8743.

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