If you're cooking for vegetarians and are short of ideas, you need look no further than this book, for it contains hundreds, neatly grouped into vegetables by category (stalks and shoots, pods and beans, and so on) or by principal ingredient (rice, eggs or whatever).
It's a manual to keep as reference rather than an inspirational read, though, and its plus and minus points, for me, are the same as those of vegetarian cooking in general.
The recipes that attract me are those for which meat is irrelevant - the bread and dessert sections, for instance; the salads, or the potato and root-veg section. I rather fancied eating the parsnip cakes with garlic borlotti beans, or the root-vegetable oven chips.
Similarly, the pasta and noodle chapter has good recipes, including one for an aubergine sauce that would work well with most shapes of macaroni and would certainly please the meat-eating fraternity as much as vegetarians. Ideas that spring from cultures where little meat is eaten - India and the Middle East, for instance - appeal most of all.
However, some aspects of vegetarian cookery, including some of the ideas here, do not work for me, especially where there's a sense that a recipe should have meat or meat stock, but doesn't. I didn't try the stock recipes here, but have attempted similar ones in the past and found them to be out of tune with what stock is meant to be.
It should be textured and gelatinous, from slow-cooked bones, with layers of flavour that act as a backdrop to whatever clever combination of herbs or mushrooms you are going to use. The problem with vegetables and water is that this element is missing and you always have the consistency of water.
In the same way, for me, the tofu and mushroom "stroganoff" recipe cries out for fillet steak, the artichoke hearts "carbonara" for a little bacon.
Of course, if I were vegetarian I would want to celebrate the high points of grain, fruit and vegetables rather than knock up meat substitutes like nut loaf, and I would find plenty to stimulate in this book.
I shall keep the book on a handy shelf for when the phone next rings with the query: "What can you do for vegetarians?" And I shall look at the breads, salads and desserts for a good idea or two, even if the phone doesn't ring.
Shaun Hill, chef-proprietor, the Merchant House, Ludlow, Shropshire
Leith's Vegetarian Bible
by Polly Tyrer
Bloomsbury Publishing, £30
ISBN 0-7475-5716-0