As with many a chef, Leigh Myers's first experience of cooking was baking a cake with his mum. Since those childhood days, of course, he has acquired a few more skills - as you would expect of someone who has been a Roux Scholarship finalist and who has worked in the kitchens of Nico Ladenis and Paul Heathcote.
Now, Myers has taken up his first head chef position at the 100-seat Atrium restaurant in the Dalmeny hotel in Lytham St Anne's, Lancashire. Formerly a sous chef there, he took over in July 2002 and has since been busy implementing menus that are true to their seasonal origins while giving customers some adventure.
In his latest overhaul, Myers has extended the number of dishes and their complexity. Where he had six starters, mains and desserts, as well as a lighter "simply served" section, there are now eight of each and the number is set to rise. The cooking, mostly modern British, has shifted up as well. "It's like we've gone up two gears," says Myers, who is always keen to give his seven-strong team a new challenge.
The decision to strive for more quality has produced starters such as pan-seared scallops with caramelised chicory and a Champagne foam (£7.25). There is the occasional fusion accent, too, so scallops can be found as a main in a garam masala, crisp poppadum tian with mango chutney (£15.95).
A chance to show off his skills - and those of his brigade - comes in what has become something of a signature dish for Myers: suckling pig in sage juices (£18.95). "Really, it's an assiette - we use the whole thing," he explains. The trotters are poached and served with a chicken and wild mushroom mousse, while a beignet is made from the kidney.
Vegetarians, however, have nothing to fear at the Atrium, as Myers has a repertoire of appropriate dishes built up over the years. Tartlet of wild mushroom and baby spinach with soft poached hen's egg and béarnaise sauce (£10.95) is a popular option.
Two tried-and-tested desserts are always kept on the menu. Melting chocolate pudding with pink grapefruit sherbet and vanilla bean cappuccino (£5.95) is a best seller. Meanwhile, in the white chocolate gâteau with raspberry milk shake, biscotti and raspberries (£5.95), the milk shake is layered in a glass between framboise liqueur and a liqueur-and-milk foam at the top - a trick Myers picked up from John Campbell's new book. (Berkshire's Vineyard at Stockcross, where Campbell is executive chef, was where Myers ate out most recently, and he was clearly impressed.)
All in all, the adventurous angle seems to be paying off. "Our customers like the fact that we offer something a bit different in the area, and at a good price," Myers says. The Atrium, recently named Restaurant of the Year by Lancashire Life, has given Myers a place to experiment and regular customers he can trust to tell him if something doesn't work. It's the kind of feedback all chefs need, he says.
Although the approach is steady - Myers likes ingredients to keep their flavours and not be messed about - his cooking is as confident as it is affordable. (The Atrium's early dinner special costs just £10 for two courses.) Lately, Myers has started giving sell-out demonstrations, the most recent being cooking for a dinner party. And the chef's choice to finish? Mum's sponge cake, of course.
The Atrium at the Dalmeny, 19-33 South Promenade, St Anne's on Sea, Lancashire FY8 1LX. Tel: 01253 712236.
www.dalmenyhotel.co.uk
Chef's cheat
When quenelling, heat the spoon and dip it in oil - this means you can work quickly along several plates without having to use two spoons.
Menus of the quarter
The three winning menus for August to October 2002 are the Garden Room restaurant, Cotswold House, Chipping Campden (Caterer, 12 September); Holbrook House, Wincanton (Caterer, 26 September); and the West House, Biddenden (Caterer, 10 October). All three go through to the shortlist for the 2003 Cateys Menu of the Year award, sponsored by Quorn.
What's on the menu
* Celeriac velout‚ with smoked chicken tortellini, truffle shavings, £5.75
* Tian of Atlantic crab, potato and chive vinaigrette, £8.95
* Chargrilled asparagus tips with champ potatoes, spring onion sauce, £7.25
* Pan-seared breast of corn-fed chicken with truffle pommes purée, rocket and basil froth, £12.95
* Roast fillet of sea bass, fondant potato, clams and nage juices, £14.95
* Daube of beef, roast roots and caraway dumpling, red wine jus, £11.95
* Blackcurrant soufflé with liquorice ice-cream and Pontefract cakes, £6.95
* Glazed Granny Smith crème brûlée, Calvados and crèŠme fraîche ice-cream, £5.95
* Tarte tatin of banana, parsnip ice-cream, £5.95
By Matthew Spencer