Twelve years ago New Zealander Juliet Harbutt started the British Cheese Festival. She talked to Emily Manson about what inspired her and how the festival has changed the UK cheese industry
Why did you start the festival?
I grew up in New Zealand where there's not a huge selection of cheese, so when I came to the UK 20 years ago I was bowled over by the variety. It was one of those moments when you discover something wonderful and then develop a passion for it. I was then working for Tesco and they wanted to promote cheese and British cheesemakers, so I suggested the awards. I couldn't believe that people still thought they had to go to Europe for good cheeses when there were so many great varieties on their doorstep.
The festival has been going for 12 years - what's the biggest change?
The size. When we first started it was simply an awards dinner. Now we also have the festival, which has educated and inspired thousands of people to go out and ask for British cheeses. It's also given cheesemakers a platform to shout about how fabulous they are.
There were fewer than 300 entries at the first awards in 1994, now there are over 830. What's driving this growth?
The supermarkets have done for cheese what they did for wine by opening up their shelves to regional produce. It provides an introduction for people who then go on to seek other cheeses at farmers' markets and delis.
How has cheesemaking developed?
Makers are becoming more innovative and creative. Knowing there's a market and retailers who will take their products has given them confidence to try different milks and styles.
What are the judges looking for?
Good quality, well made cheeses with no faults and then something extra that makes it stand out in a crowd.
What advice do you have for putting together a cheeseboard?
Where possible, buy local. Serve one brilliant cheese rather than six average cheeses and make sure you're not overcharging for it. Finally, don't serve it with 75 different types of biscuit or tortured vegetables.
What are your top tips for maintaining a cheeseboard?
They shouldn't be too cold, keep them dry, and don't order too many. If you offered a cheese menu that was comparable with a pudding menu, it would triple sales and the amount of wine sold and reduce wastage.
How do British cheeses compare with European products?
Our cheese is as good as anything in Europe, it's just different. I enjoy Camembert and Brie, as no one makes them like the French, but there are hundreds of alternatives that are equally fantastic in this country.
- The winners of the 2005 British Cheese Awards will be listed from Saturday (22 October) at www.thecheeseweb.com.