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Caterer & Hotelkeeper Magazine

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Time is running out for rip-off cafés

Thursday 20 October 2005 00:00

I've lost count of the number of times I've ordered a cappuccino from a high-street café, settled back with my paper and then had the experience ruined by a poorly made, overpriced, foul-tasting coffee.

In my experience, seven out of 10 cafés charge far too much for a coffee while cutting corners in its production, failing miserably to match the standard of coffee provided by the big coffee chains. Frankly, when I pay £1.65-£1.80 for a coffee I know that I'm being ripped off - and very shortly consumers will, too. I think it's a liberty and an embarrassment to the industry, and it's high time the majority of independents woke up to this.

As a report by market analyst Allegra Strategies predicted five years ago, small UK market towns and regional centres are starting to see an increase in the number of chain and privately owned coffee shops. As a consequence of this, café owners can't afford to be complacent over their offering, otherwise they will simply lose business.

We're very lucky in the UK. Unlike Europe, where the price of a coffee is often centrally controlled, here there is an acceptance of a high price thanks to the effect of the bigger chains. Consumers are happy to pay more to enjoy the "Starbucks experience", where the decor and general ambience of the outlet contributes to their purchase. What disgusts me is that many small café owners take advantage of this. They think they can charge a premium price without investment in either the raw coffee or the surroundings. If the trend continues, consumers - who are becoming increasingly discerning about their choice of coffee - will simply gravitate elsewhere rather than make a formal complaint.

To thrive in this market, I urge independent caf owners to do three things. First, they need to invest in the basics required to make a decent cup of coffee. There is no long-term financial advantage to be achieved by scrimping on the raw ingredients. With outlets making a fantastic margin on each coffee sold, it is ludicrous that they are trying to save a few pence by buying the cheapest coffee available.

Second, smaller outlets also need to ensure their equipment is well maintained and that they invest in training where required. This should be by a professional trainer and not a salesperson. This is increasingly important, as smaller outlets need the ability to perfect the art of making larger cappuccinos and lattes in response to increased demand for a longer drink. It takes skill to produce a 16oz latte, because it's so hard to ensure the coffee can be tasted through the milk.

Lastly, ambience is important. Many British consumers still see having a coffee out as a luxury, so when they purchase a drink they are buying into its presentation and the environment it is served in as well as its taste.

In future, I hope we will see changes. And next time I order a latte from a café in the depths of middle England I hope I'll want to linger and order a refill rather than be forced to leave yet another half-drunk cup.

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