Three artisan cheesemakers have been recognised for their unique efforts by the British Association of Gastronomes, an epicurean organisation founded by food critic Egon Ronay 20 years ago.
The three dairies based in Somerset, the home of Cheddar, joined forces under the umbrella organisation of Artisan Somerset Cheddar to offer cheese lovers an alternative to mass-produced Cheddar.
Artisan Somerset Cheddar, which comprises only the three cheeses, Montgomery's, Westcombe and Keen's, is a classification that may be applied only to cheese made with unpasteurised milk from the maker's own cows; mixed by hand - a process known as cheddaring - using bacteria at least 50 years old; covered by lard and matured for at least 11 months.
According to Ronay, the Gastronomes' president, these exacting standards of production have created what he describes as a "new food denomination" similar to the Apellation Contrôlée applied to certain French wines.
Randolph Hodgson, founder of the Specialist Cheesemakers Association and owner of Neal's Yard Diary in Covent Garden, London, said the cheeses had a "fruity, nutty, grassy note and an aroma of mustiness close to the rind and natural mould coat". All three sell at about £7.50 per pound in the shops.
Previous recipients of the award, the Grand Prix of Gastronomy, are Albert and Michel Roux, who received the award in 1996 for their contribution to the revival of haute cuisine, and the Guild of Q Butchers.