No harmony between the AA and Mr Ronay
I was saddened to read Egon Ronay's Viewpoint, "Why harmonisation simply won't work" (Caterer, 16 December, page 18). At first glance, it looks like just another knocking piece, but its title belies a barely veiled attack on the AA by a man of great standing in the hotel industry who simply should know better.
Mr Ronay is entitled to his opinions and his memories - and much of his article is a collection of nostalgic recollections of the good old days when the Egon Ronay guides were at their peak. But he makes a number of inaccurate and damaging statements, which must be put right.
His main point concerns the administration of the AA's classification scheme and the calibre of its inspectors.
First, the issue of charges. The AA's scheme is entirely voluntary. Hoteliers opt to have their establishment inspected, and charges start at £183.30 for a small bed and breakfast, rising to £991.76 for a five-star hotel (not £1,500, as stated).
Payment is for assessment and rating by professional inspectors, who give direct feedback and advice to the hotelier. Such AA recognition entitles establishments to a range of free marketing benefits. Establishments cannot, under any circumstances, simply pay for an entry in a guidebook. No AA guides are supported financially by the rating and classification scheme, which itself merely breaks even.
The Hotel and Guest Accommodation schemes operate within the hotel and catering industry to raise quality and standards to the benefit of the general public, and we are not afraid to ask for contributions to help run it. But equally, our inspectors receive no free drinks, meals or anything else. They pay all the expenses incurred in completing their inspections.
Mr Ronay is also wrong to criticise the AA's ability to sell guides. The AA's hotel guide, bed and breakfast guide, and camping and caravanning guide are all number one best sellers; and our rising stars, the restaurant and pub guides, are both currently at number three in their respective markets, according to book industry figures.
These market-leading positions represent actual sales to consumers through retail outlets in a highly competitive marketplace. The book-buying public at large chooses our guides - not only AA members. And, unlike Egon Ronay's guides, the print runs are not inflated by sponsors "buying" thousands of copies for private distribution.
The next issue I want to tackle is hotel inspectors. I cannot be alone in being astonished at the arrogance of Mr Ronay's claim that there are fewer than 100 people in the country capable of making judgements about food and wine.
As far as the calibre of AA inspectors is concerned, we believe our selection criteria and training are second to none. We call for an industry qualification such as MHCIMA or degree standard in tourism or hotel management, plus a minimum of three years' relevant experience.
But, above all, we insist that candidates have a love of food and wine - inherent skills that cannot be gained, even with the comprehensive initial and ongoing training we provide.
We receive between 300 and 400 applications through Caterer & Hotelkeeper whenever we place a job advert, so I'd be interested to know how many readers agree with his point.
Unlike the Egon Ronay guides in their day, the AA is not in the business of appealing to a niche market. Consumers' expectations are considerably higher than they were a few years ago, and recognition and appreciation of fresh food and fine wine is no longer the preserve of the self-appointed gourmet.
Mr Ronay's comments about judging a restaurant's kitchen by its consommé are interesting. Since he now awards chefs' hats to fast-food chains at airports, are we to believe he still uses this parameter before bestowing his accolade?
Let me finish with a final point about "harmonisation". The word is a shorthand way of describing the coming together of the AA, RAC and the English Tourism Council to agree base criteria for their schemes and to simplify ratings that were known to confuse the public.
The key is quality standards that can be trusted and which reflect consumer expectations. This objective has been achieved without imposing a straitjacket on initiative and diversity.
Albert Hampson is business manager of hotel services for the AA
