Fruit pies taste test
Depending on the great British weather, it might be dainty fruit tarts for tea on the lawn or piping-hot apple pie or strudel with lashings of cream or custard making an appearance on your dessert menu throughout the summer and autumn months.
Either way, this time of year is ripe for tempting customers with an array of berries and tangy citrus flavours. And if you don't make tarts and pies yourself on the premises, you should be checking out what fruit desserts are on the market.
To help you, Caterer gathered together seven chefs to taste six fruit-based desserts - one pie, three tarts, one flan and a strudel - at the Leaping Hare restaurant, part of Wyken Hall and Vineyards, near Stanton, Suffolk. Head chef Alex Turner not only munched his way through all six as a taster but simultaneously organised the smooth delivery of product after product from kitchen to plate, ably assisted by restaurant manager John Betham.
What stood out for most of the tasters was the quality of the pastry bases used in the desserts, many of which had a crisp, short and light texture with a good taste.
Of course, the real test was the filling. Authentic appearance drew praise, but fresh fruit flavours and home-baked tastes were popular attributes. What seemed elusive was much of an aroma.
The Tasters
Alex Turner is head chef at the Michelin Bib Gourmand-rated Leaping Hare restaurant run by contract caterer Charlton House. Open Monday to Saturday during the day and on Friday and Saturday evenings, the 46-seat restaurant and 34-seat caf‚ serve more than 1,000 customers a week. The restaurant uses local produce wherever possible and has an extensive kitchen garden, including an orchard.
Phil Brady is chef-manager at caterer Blue Apple's contract with Satellite Information Systems in London. He feeds about 200 employees a day in a variety of forms, including an … la carte breakfast, buffet lunch, evening meals and a directors' dining operation. Blue Apple will buy in dessert products, but Brady finds that making his own is more cost-effective. Average spend is between £2 and £16.
Alan Ford is head chef at the three-AA-rosette restaurant Hintlesham Hall in Hintlesham, Suffolk. He feeds about 100 guests a day in the fine-dining restaurant, plus another 70 at the hotel's golf club. Average spend is about £22 at lunch, £45 in the evening, and £16 at the golf club. All food is freshly made.
Donna Franklin is food development and operations manager with the Brookwood Partnership, a contract catering company that specialises in private education and some business and industry sites. Diners are usually under 18 years old but the company also looks after staff and VIP lunches and summer balls. The company makes most food fresh but Franklin does look out for products that look and taste home-made for larger functions. She would expect to pay up to £1.30 per portion.
Mark Webb is a partner in Premier Cru caterers, which provides the catering (mainly weddings and parties) at a Georgian manor house in Essex, feeding about 80 guests every day. They operate three to seven days a week (depending on season) and also offer event and private catering. If the company buys a dessert in, Webb looks for a clean, neat, home-made appearance.
Alex Honeywill is chef manager at a Sodexho business and industry contract in Cambridge. He provides a hot and cold breakfast and a lunch service, as well as catering for meetings and seminars, feeding about 150 employers a day in a 100-seat restaurant. Average spend is about £2. Although Sodexho does source pre-prepared products, Honeywill finds he can produce desserts more cost-effectively in house - though he is on the lookout for quality products at the right price.
Clare Bacchus is food concepts manager for the catering division of facilities management company Mitie, which operates more than 40 contracts within business and industry, healthcare and education, as well at some other government sites. She has responsibility for the whole of Mitie's supplier base and co-ordinates key projects to promote food at the point of sale.
Fruit pies Taste Test - The Results
The products were rated according to our star system: ** Outstanding * Recommended
* TARTE AU CITRON - MAISON BLANC
£10.30 for 26cm-wide tarte (10 portions - £1.03 per portion)
Positive comments: clean, simple appearance - looks professional; pastry crisp and sweet; pastry holds up well during cutting - easy portioning; plenty of flavour.
Less favourable: top looks a little wet - glaze should be more crispy; slightly too sharp and zingy; texture a little grainy.
* RHUBARB AND RASPBERRY FRANGIPAN TART - CATERFORCE
£13.85 for 1.5kg tart (16 portions - 87p per portion)
Positive comments: looks appealing - tall with lively fruit colour; good balance of flavour; good rhubarb smell; rhubarb taste still tart; moist, puddingy texture; looks like a classic winter warmer.
Less favourable: almond essence a little artificial; doesn't need the glaze.
BIG BRAMLEY APPLE PIE - 3663
£9.50 for 2.5kg (14 portions - 68p per portion)
Positive comments: good value; big, filling portions - visually appealing; crisp, crumbly pastry on top; appley flavour.
Less favourable: could do with some spice; pastry a little soggy underneath; might be difficult to portion.
FLAN OF LITTLE FRUITS - HERSCHELL HOUSE
£11.75 for 11in wide flan (14 portions - 84p per portion)
Positive comments: fruit looks good - bright colour; fresh aroma; good, crisp pastry.
Less favourable: glaze looks too heavy; custard a little artificial; fruit a little watery; fragile texture.
APPLE STRUDEL - FRICOPAN
67p for 600g strudel (6 portions - 11p per portion)
Positive comments: good strudel look with apples and sultanas; plenty of apple flavour; very good value.
Less favourable: oily taste in pastry; tastes slightly artificial.
APPLE FLAN - BRAKES
£6.90 (10 slices - 69p per portion)
Positive comments: attractive lattice top; nice cinnamon taste; good value.
Less favourable: doughy texture; artificial-looking.
Contacts
3663 0870 3663 100
Brakes 0845 606 9090
Caterforce 01625 505929
Fricopan 023 8027 5155
Herschell House 01702 710315
Maison Blanc 020 8838 0848
