The Guardian

3 July
Matthew Fort, as part of his US gastro tour, visits Gramercy Tavern in New York

The Gramercy Tavern is a class act. The mood is stately. The service is smooth. The martinis are classic and the food is very good - from the rabbit rillettes with tapenade fennel, caper sprouts and onion focaccia to the chilled pea soup with couscous and mint; and the grilled baby octopus with shaved fennel, lemon and sweet onion caponata to the salmon with asparagus, salsify and gremolata; and the fresh bacon with sp„tzle, fiddlehead ferns and pickled ramps to the chicken with spring vegetables, mushrooms and red wine. (Rating: 16.5/20)


The Independent

3 July
Tracey MacLeod heads up to Scotland's first whisky restaurant, Amber, in Edinburgh

The deeply flavoured treacle and Speyside malt sauce which accompanied my saddle of venison was also well judged and I was starting to think that Amber's chef was a bit of a master saucier. Then everything went wrong. Harry's main course was described as "wild Scottish salmon cooked with pearl barley, seaweed and Islay malt". Sounds OK, doesn't it? But it wasn't. It was a hideous pile-up of a dish, the kind of aberration that makes you question everything that's gone before. The seaweed - some kind of Oriental variety - was infinitely fishier than the fish itself. A greyish razor clam squatted unappetisingly among the barley, which also housed an incongruous whole radish, while a side dish of gratinated vegetables seemed to have strayed in from a different restaurant. Still, at least we had finally found a use for our whiskies. They were pretty effective at taking away the taste of seaweed.


The Sunday Times

4 July
AA Gill at chef Vineet Bhatia's new restaurant, Rasoi Vineet Bhatia, in London SW3

Despite all the advances made in Indian food, I think Vineet is still the finest modern-Indian chef anywhere. His ability to make complex flavours clear and harmonious, while keeping dishes light and fresh, is unmatched and his seasoning is always pitch perfect. I just wish he trusted his talent more. It doesn't need all the attendant amuse-bouches and falderals. He doesn't need to prove himself. Yet there is still a whisper of cooking for examiners and stars. And it's understandable: those who are patronisingly known as "ethnic" chefs feel they have to work harder to impress Eurocentric guides. I only hope Vineet and his wife can relax into their new venture and enjoy their brilliance. They don't need to impress. They've made it. (Rating: 4/5)


Timeout
6 July
Roopa Gulati also at the newly opened Rasoi Vineet Bhatia

Bhatia's cooking was spot-on, with a main course of lime-spiked chilli and ginger lobster surrounded by a creamy moat of deliciously fishy bisque-like sauce. Broccoli kluchdi - risotto-style rice tempered with curry leaves - worked particularly well as a restrained accompaniment to the meaty lobster. Yet, sometimes Bhatia overdoes it. Rich black lentils simmered with cream, butter and tomatoes was topped with buttery potato and cumin mash, and artfully arranged tandoori lamb slices. He should have stopped there, but this was then crowned with deep-fried, batter-dipped asparagus spears. Great on their own, but just too much going on. (Dinner for two with wine and service, £140)