About three-and-a-half years ago we bought the Green Inn restaurant in Ballater, Aberdeenshire. Under the previous owners the restaurant had achieved a two-rosette rating in the AA Restaurant Guide.

We immediately made enquiries with the AA as to how the restaurant could be included in its guide under our ownership. We were advised to send sample menus, wine lists and the chef's CV, which we did.

On following this up with the AA, we were advised that the information had been lost and were asked to resubmit it, which we did. No inspection was forthcoming, so some 12 months later, in January 2004, we contacted the AA again and were asked to resubmit up-to-date information. Again we complied, and receipt was acknowledged in writing. However, we were advised that an inspection may or may not take place, and that "no further correspondence could be entered into".

Since buying the restaurant we've worked very hard to improve on the standard which previously attracted two rosettes. We're told by our customers that we have more than accomplished this. Indeed, our efforts have been recognised by VisitScotland, which has awarded us four stars. We have also been included, with favourable comments, in the Good Food Guide, Harden's Guide, Michelin guide, Eat Scotland and others.

Many of our clients are experienced good food lovers who have been visiting us for many years. They frequently express astonishment that the restaurant has, effectively, been dropped from the AA guide when, in their opinion, the food and ambience have improved noticeably.

When we were asked why, our initial response was that we would have to await reinspection by the AA. Our more recent response has been "the AA doesn't seem interested". Sadly, in this our fourth season, our response will probably be "the AA refuse to inspect us".

Perhaps it would be cynical of us to suggest that as we are not a hotel, and therefore would not pay a fee to be in the Restaurant Guide, the AA's priorities appear to lie elsewhere. Can the guide really claim to be a true and contemporary reflection of the restaurant market?

Trevor O'Halloran
Partner, the Green Inn, Ballater, Aberdeenshire