A minute on the clock… Chris Meredith
Chris Meredith has been awarded his second Michelin star in as many years. His first star was at the Samling in 2004, but he left before it was announced. This year the star is for his work at Gilpin Lodge. He talks to Emily Manson about what it means
How does it feel to have a Michelin star again? Great! Better than before, as I wasn't there the first time. It feels like I've started with a clean slate and got full recognition now.
Were you aiming for a star this year? I've always wanted one. At the Samling, I'd just left when the star was announced and it had only 20 covers, so people thought it was easier to achieve. At Gilpin Lodge we have 70 covers, so it really tested me and has been a good challenge for the whole team.
There were fewer stars given out this year - do you think Michelin is making it harder? They can't make it harder, as no one knows what they want in the first place. What we do is quite classical but the secret with Michelin is to cook what you want and what guests like and they'll come along. There's no set method.
What are the key things that make your food stand out? Quality ingredients and depth of flavours. I don't believe in pretty pictures on a plate - it's about what tastes good in your mouth.
You've been at Gilpin Lodge a year. What changes have you made? Everything, because everyone walked out within a week of me starting. I was quite glad, though, as it's easier to do what you want if the staff know what you're after and want to achieve the same thing. We wanted to build up local trade and now we get lots of regulars. One lady comes two or three times a week just for our soufflé.
Where do you get your menu inspiration from? I live in a nice area and walk to work. I pass no cars but lots of deer. It gives you much more inspiration than commuting through London.
I'm doing my interpretation of classical food but with a modern outlook. You need to do food that people understand. There's nothing worse than not understanding a menu.
The Samling lost its Michelin star this year. How does that make you feel? It's a bit sad in a way, but my main aim was to get it at Gilpin. I think your past is your past.
Will you go for two stars next year? No - as long as the owners are happy, the restaurant is full and we keep our standards, I'm happy. Then, if it comes it comes, that's great, but if it doesn't, I'll still be happy.
Would you consider returning to London? I spent six years in London but I like it in the Lake District. I have a nice life up here and think I have stressed my wife out enough in the past trying to achieve my goals. It's time to give her a bit of a break and stay put.
