Geoffrey Smeddle, head chef of Conran's Glasgow eaterie Etain, is leaving to take the helm at Peat Inn restaurant with rooms in Cupar, Fife, next month.

Smeddle paid over the £750,000 asking price for the three AA-rosette, 18th-century former coaching inn, which is also AA Restaurant of the Year 2006. The business, which includes a 48-seat restaurant and eight two-star suites, has been built up over the past 35 years by retiring owners David and Patricia Wilson.

Smeddle, who trained under Michelin-starred chef Herbert Berger and Chris Galvin, helped Conran Restaurants open both Etain and the Zinc Bar & Grill in Glasgow three years ago.

Six miles from the golfing and university town of St Andrews, the Peat Inn is a popular haunt of championship golfers, politicians and celebrities.