Danny Meyer, New York chef
Feted New York chef Danny Meyer has achieved cult status in the Big Apple with his Union Square Café Group. While in London to promote his book Setting The Table, he spoke to Emily Manson about what it takes to make it there
What makes your restaurants such long-standing favourites?
I wrote Setting The Table to answer just that question. In business most of us are pretty good at reviewing our mistakes but it dawned on me that I've been doing something right and I should find out what, then I could be more intentional about my leadership. In two words it's enlightened hospitality - but it takes a bit longer to explain properly.
What can British and US culinary cultures learn from each other?
No matter how big a city is, it's very easy and natural that culinary trends get copied and replicated and it can become quite homogenised. It's very important to look beyond your own city, no matter how great it is, for fresh approaches. I would never have come to London for culinary inspiration five years ago, but now I look out for food, design and a general reminder of how a big city can be quite civilised.
Why did you originally pick Union Square?
If you become a pioneer in a neighbourhood you get a competitive advantage when others move in, as hopefully you've negotiated a better rent before the area comes up. If you're worth your salt you'll then have a lower cost of business allowing you to spend more money on quality, while still making the same profit as the other guys. I'd rather spend more money on better ingredients, chefs and managers than on rent.
Whatever cuisine you turn your hand to - be it American, BBQ, Indian - turns out to be a huge success. What's the secret?
I only take on projects if I have a personal passion for the subject. If I don't love BBQ right down to my bones, I won't do it. I never follow analysis, only my own passion and I derive enormous pleasure from giving pleasure to people and sharing my enthusiasm with them. But being hospitable should not be mistaken for not being competitive - I love to win and will stick with something until I get it right.
You've opened up Shake Shack, selling frozen custard - what's that all about?
It's essentially what happens when premium ice cream shacks up with soft serve. We make it in two flavours, vanilla and chocolate, and then every day create a special seasonal flavour - blending things like peaches or apricots into the vanilla - or grating fresh coconut into the chocolate. It was unexpected but people flocked to it in droves.
Was Gordon Ramsay ever going to get a fair crack with his first US venture?
He's had the same welcome many of us get, it's the New York Times at its schoolmarmish best, saying: "Welcome to New York, now get to work and we'll keep our eye on you."
