Another newspaper critic has rubbished famed French chef Alain Ducasse’s first London restaurant at the capital’s Dorchester.

Critic Giles Coren pondered whether London might be losing its soul after a recent visit to one of last year’s most high profile launches.

At the start of the month Jay Rayner savaged Ducasse’s latest restaurant, labelling it as expensive and disappointing.

For a look behind the scenes at Ducasse’s new operation see Inside Kitchen in this week’s Caterer and Hotelkeeper (17 January).

Head chef Jocelyn Herland at work

The Independent’s Terry Durack meanwhile found a vibrant cocktail culture at the second Beach Blanket Babylon but the food to be solely lacking.

But Cheltenham’s Lumiere was described by Jay Rayner in the Observer as the perfect antidote to the rash of expensive London eateries that have opened recently.

For a full round-up of the latest national restaurant reviews check out the latest What’s on the Menu? here

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The Times savage Alain Ducasse’s new London restaurant >>

by Chris Druce

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